If you love cars and bikes like I do, and you just can't get enough and like me have spent hours on the internet searching for sites, blogs and other ways to find car photos and more, then look no further. For me finding individuals that share the same passion as I do when it comes to cars and bikes has always been a challenge, I mean having a chat software that allows me to enter a room for bikes and car lovers is just not enough, in fact I had pretty much resigned to my fate when I came across some great sites and blogs.
Today there are specialized social networking sites like www.nospeedlimits.eu that allow car and bike fans like me to actually have our own web profile, with tons of pictures of the latest luxury cars, and sports bikes. In fact in addition most sites like www.nospeedlimits.eu have a blog as well, so if people want to interact freely, or discuss the latest in car and auto news they can simply post their thoughts and get answers and inputs from other people. In fact if you are considering joining a community of like minded individuals then its a good idea to join a website that allows you to freely voice chat and video chat with other members, and in addition also choose which members you want to 'hang out with' through a friends list.
One of the biggest features to look for in any social networking site, or interactive site is chatting. Chat like video and voice chat adds a whole new dimension, and allows people to share videos of their favourite bikes and cars without any hassle, in addition to video and voice chat, a majority of the sites I visited also offered me an opportunity to create my own profile. This is an indispensable feature; by creating a personalised profile it was simpler for other people to see my likes and dislikes, and by looking at profiles of other people I was able to get in touch with people who loved Kawasaki bikes and Ferrari 's just like me (who doesn�t?).
If you are looking at joining a site that allows you to chat with like minded people, or are looking to download tons of pictures and videos about your favourite car and bike, then don't worry, there are specialized sites available now, all you need to do is search for the one you want to be part of, it does not always have to be a social networking site, you could just join a blog, or a file exchange community, its entirely up to you. The advantage of social networking sites is that they usually have a blend of all the features I have just mentioned above, so it makes it simpler for you to find all the features you need in one place, also social networking site are more entertaining as they allow users to interact with each other in real time, not like blogs and emailing. You can speak to a person through video or voice chat, without having to wait for days to get a response.
What to look for in Car and Bike site
This is a difficult decision, first of all not all car and bike sites are free to use, some usually have a small fees to use their services, if this is the case then make sure that the services you are paying for are really what you want, most social networking based sites have voice and video chat integrated into the site, I personally recommend joining such a site as it makes interacting with other people much more enjoyable. Also make sure the site allows free flow of information between users, by this I mean the site should allow you to send and receive photos, videos etc. without much fuss. At the end of the day it comes down to a matter of choice, if you don't like social networking sites, then blogs and forums are a better idea.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Other Important Elements In Riding
Turning is the second most important element of safely riding a motorcycle besides braking and accelerating. It requires a solid understanding of other elements including grip, dynamics, education, and a good dose of mental rationality.
The ability to choose the right line through a corner, how to get through the apex effectively, and a basic understanding of counter-steering are all key components to successfully and effectively wrapping around a corner.
When you approach the corner, never over-ride your line of sight. In other words, don't drive faster than you can see to stop in case of an emergency. Determine a safe cornering speed before you initiate the turn, braking hardest before you start counter-steering, then letting off the brake as you lean the bike in to the corner. By the time you reach the apex, you should be ready to start accelerating again.
Perhaps as much as 1/3 of all motorcycle accidents are single bike accidents where the bike ran off the road because the rider "just couldn't make the turn." In many of those cases, proper cornering technique may have played an important part in preventing the accident. Knowing how far your bike can lean in a turn is key to knowing how quickly you can make a corner. On todays sport bikes, if you're not scraping parts on the ground in a lean, you're not leaned over all the way.
Your tires are the only thing that separates you from the pavement. On an average sport bike, there are only a few square inches of rubber "contact patch" for each tire. Good grip is determined by things like tire condition, road conditions, dynamics, and sudden inputs.
You don't have much holding you up, so every aspect of grip is important and must be considered when riding. If you take even one aspect of grip out of the equation, you put yourself at great risk of falling. You can't control the road conditions, but you can keep yourself in the area of the road where more grip is available. Riding in the tracks from car tires will usually provide you with the best traction. This is because the car 's tires are constantly cleaning the surface as they roll over it. Try to keep your bike in the area of the road where the car tires typically travel.
Some of the worst times for traction are the first few hours of (or after) rain, when oil and debris floats to the top. Extra care should be taken to eliminate sudden inputs, sharp turns or hard braking/acceleration when conditions are poor.
Unlike a car, you only have two tires on your bike. If you lose one tire due to a flat or because you run into dirt, oil etc, especially in the front, you will almost surely fall if you're not ready for it. Don't take your tires for granted. Make sure they're in good condition, and keep them at the proper air pressure. When they're worn or damaged, replace them immediately.
The dynamics of a motorcycle related to the physics involved in keeping it upright are pretty interesting. They're also handy to know in case of an emergency. By its very nature, a motorcycle in motion is more likely to stay upright than when it 's not moving, or when it 's moving slowly.
The faster you're going, the harder it is to fall over, and the more violent it will be if you do. The reason for this is gyration. The major moving parts on a motorcycle, (tires and engine), create stability while in motion. If you are riding slowly and are 'bumped' by an outside force, less pressure is required to knock you over than if you were moving faster.
The Important Elements in Riding:
1. Acceleration and Braking
2. Turning
3. Grip
4. Dynamics
5. Assertive Predictability
6. Sudden Inputs
7. Mental Conditioning
8. Education
The ability to choose the right line through a corner, how to get through the apex effectively, and a basic understanding of counter-steering are all key components to successfully and effectively wrapping around a corner.
When you approach the corner, never over-ride your line of sight. In other words, don't drive faster than you can see to stop in case of an emergency. Determine a safe cornering speed before you initiate the turn, braking hardest before you start counter-steering, then letting off the brake as you lean the bike in to the corner. By the time you reach the apex, you should be ready to start accelerating again.
Perhaps as much as 1/3 of all motorcycle accidents are single bike accidents where the bike ran off the road because the rider "just couldn't make the turn." In many of those cases, proper cornering technique may have played an important part in preventing the accident. Knowing how far your bike can lean in a turn is key to knowing how quickly you can make a corner. On todays sport bikes, if you're not scraping parts on the ground in a lean, you're not leaned over all the way.
Your tires are the only thing that separates you from the pavement. On an average sport bike, there are only a few square inches of rubber "contact patch" for each tire. Good grip is determined by things like tire condition, road conditions, dynamics, and sudden inputs.
You don't have much holding you up, so every aspect of grip is important and must be considered when riding. If you take even one aspect of grip out of the equation, you put yourself at great risk of falling. You can't control the road conditions, but you can keep yourself in the area of the road where more grip is available. Riding in the tracks from car tires will usually provide you with the best traction. This is because the car 's tires are constantly cleaning the surface as they roll over it. Try to keep your bike in the area of the road where the car tires typically travel.
Some of the worst times for traction are the first few hours of (or after) rain, when oil and debris floats to the top. Extra care should be taken to eliminate sudden inputs, sharp turns or hard braking/acceleration when conditions are poor.
Unlike a car, you only have two tires on your bike. If you lose one tire due to a flat or because you run into dirt, oil etc, especially in the front, you will almost surely fall if you're not ready for it. Don't take your tires for granted. Make sure they're in good condition, and keep them at the proper air pressure. When they're worn or damaged, replace them immediately.
The dynamics of a motorcycle related to the physics involved in keeping it upright are pretty interesting. They're also handy to know in case of an emergency. By its very nature, a motorcycle in motion is more likely to stay upright than when it 's not moving, or when it 's moving slowly.
The faster you're going, the harder it is to fall over, and the more violent it will be if you do. The reason for this is gyration. The major moving parts on a motorcycle, (tires and engine), create stability while in motion. If you are riding slowly and are 'bumped' by an outside force, less pressure is required to knock you over than if you were moving faster.
The Important Elements in Riding:
1. Acceleration and Braking
2. Turning
3. Grip
4. Dynamics
5. Assertive Predictability
6. Sudden Inputs
7. Mental Conditioning
8. Education
Acceleration And Breaking - First And Most Important Element In Riding
There 's nothing like the feeling you get when you're on your favorite road with a familiar bike. You flow through corners as if on a rail, senses peaked, adrenaline raging uncontrollably throughout your body. When it 's done right, it 's almost as though everything is moving in slow motion.
You've done it dozens of times before; coming into the corner hard on the brakes. You feel the rear tire slide and skip slightly to the side as you approach the corner. You ease off the brake as you push the opposite grip, forcing the bike to lean into the turn, with your knee sticking out as if it were a wing. You continue to slow until you reach full lean and approach the apex, covering the brake and looking deep into the turn.
Then you see it. From the corner of your eye you see what appears to be a rabbit running towards the road. In an instant your mind calculates paths between you and the rabbit, and you realize they will intersect. You've already committed to the corner, and you know if you remain on your present line you'll hit the rabbit. You also know that at that speed and lean angle, hitting even the smallest of animals will greatly upset the bike and likely result in a crash for you.
What happens next has many variables. Some were determined before you ever entered the corner; others will be determined by what you do next. Motorcycling can be an absolutely great sport, but it can also be frighteningly dangerous if you get into a situation like the one described above without the proper skills or preparation.
Your riding skills are something to be mastered through practice, patience, and as you will (hopefully) soon find out, common sense and natural reaction. These skills should be honed into a natural reaction by those of us who weren't born with them.
The first and most important element of riding is acceleration and braking. They involve (and are largely dependant on) several other elements including dynamics and physics, grip, and sudden inputs. These elements are mastered only with practice and are the foundation for nearly every other element.
Braking is probably the single most important element used in controlling your bike in an emergency. When done correctly, it can produce several Gs of stopping power, easily lifting the rear wheel completely off the ground and flipping the bike over completely if you have the grip. The front tire of a street bike is responsible for 70% to 90% of braking power under normal or semi-hard braking, and up to 100% in emergency or stunting situations. The only exceptions to this are in low traction conditions such as wet, dirty or oily roads, or while at high lean angles.
Under low traction conditions, the front brake can be extremely dangerous and should be used with extreme care, or not at all. When the brakes are applied (either front or rear), weight is transferred to the front of the bike. If traction conditions are less than favorable, front braking will load the front tire which will result in a skid and likely a crash.
Braking while leaning over in a corner will cause the bike to either stand up, changing your line drastically, or a loss of traction causing the bike to wash out from under you. Which is often called a low-side. Be sure to allow yourself enough extra grip and lean angle reserved (not used) in case you need to get hard on the brakes in a turn. It 's not a good idea to EVER go into a corner at max speed unless you're on a race track. You need to have an out in case of emergency, like a rabbit running into your path. Changing course mid corner in a split second requires at least a small amount of reserve lean angle and/or braking ability. Going in at 100% doesn't leave you any wiggle room.
Get to know your brakes and your accelerator. They can be your best friend if you get to know them well or your worst enemy if you don't understand them.
You've done it dozens of times before; coming into the corner hard on the brakes. You feel the rear tire slide and skip slightly to the side as you approach the corner. You ease off the brake as you push the opposite grip, forcing the bike to lean into the turn, with your knee sticking out as if it were a wing. You continue to slow until you reach full lean and approach the apex, covering the brake and looking deep into the turn.
Then you see it. From the corner of your eye you see what appears to be a rabbit running towards the road. In an instant your mind calculates paths between you and the rabbit, and you realize they will intersect. You've already committed to the corner, and you know if you remain on your present line you'll hit the rabbit. You also know that at that speed and lean angle, hitting even the smallest of animals will greatly upset the bike and likely result in a crash for you.
What happens next has many variables. Some were determined before you ever entered the corner; others will be determined by what you do next. Motorcycling can be an absolutely great sport, but it can also be frighteningly dangerous if you get into a situation like the one described above without the proper skills or preparation.
Your riding skills are something to be mastered through practice, patience, and as you will (hopefully) soon find out, common sense and natural reaction. These skills should be honed into a natural reaction by those of us who weren't born with them.
The first and most important element of riding is acceleration and braking. They involve (and are largely dependant on) several other elements including dynamics and physics, grip, and sudden inputs. These elements are mastered only with practice and are the foundation for nearly every other element.
Braking is probably the single most important element used in controlling your bike in an emergency. When done correctly, it can produce several Gs of stopping power, easily lifting the rear wheel completely off the ground and flipping the bike over completely if you have the grip. The front tire of a street bike is responsible for 70% to 90% of braking power under normal or semi-hard braking, and up to 100% in emergency or stunting situations. The only exceptions to this are in low traction conditions such as wet, dirty or oily roads, or while at high lean angles.
Under low traction conditions, the front brake can be extremely dangerous and should be used with extreme care, or not at all. When the brakes are applied (either front or rear), weight is transferred to the front of the bike. If traction conditions are less than favorable, front braking will load the front tire which will result in a skid and likely a crash.
Braking while leaning over in a corner will cause the bike to either stand up, changing your line drastically, or a loss of traction causing the bike to wash out from under you. Which is often called a low-side. Be sure to allow yourself enough extra grip and lean angle reserved (not used) in case you need to get hard on the brakes in a turn. It 's not a good idea to EVER go into a corner at max speed unless you're on a race track. You need to have an out in case of emergency, like a rabbit running into your path. Changing course mid corner in a split second requires at least a small amount of reserve lean angle and/or braking ability. Going in at 100% doesn't leave you any wiggle room.
Get to know your brakes and your accelerator. They can be your best friend if you get to know them well or your worst enemy if you don't understand them.
Start At The Beginning: Online Help For New Motorcyclists
Whether it 's the music from Easy Rider or an advertisement showing a motorcycle rider going up the pacific coast highway, part of the mystique of owning a motorcycle is the picture of freedom it represents. Motorcycle riders always look like they are riding along with out a care in the world. It appeals to the weekend warrior in all of us. However, behind the picturesque liberty is a host of things that rider had to do, learn, and buy before they could look so care free. There are several things a beginner has to know before stepping on the starter of a brand new bike.
Pick The Right Bike
All your life you've seen big Harley-Davidsons go by and thought that was the bike for you or you noticed your neighbor with a Kawasaki Vulcan and wanted something that big and sleek. However, it 's important you pick a bike that is best for a beginner. Your first motorcycle won't be the only one you ever buy and you shouldn't buy it thinking you can't have a bigger or better one later.
Your first motorcycle should be easy to handle. It 's best to start off with something simple, light weight and inexpensive so you can get your boots dirty before expending the big bucks on a heavy hitter. Both Honda and Kawasaki have good beginner bikes. Harley-Davidson 's Sportster is the lightest and best bike for a beginner but it is more recommendable that you start with something else and move up to a Harley. Check motorcycle review sites for the best bikes for a newbie. If you ask 50 bikers you might get 50 different answers, but at least they can point you in the best direction.
Get The Right Gear
Most people know they can't hop on a motorcycle with some shorts and a pair of flip-flops and ride safely. There are clothing recommendations you should follow to prevent self injury. A helmet is required to ride a motorcycle safely and in some states is the law. I'm sure you've seen lots of people riding without helmets, but you don't have to pay their medical bills. The next requirement is a good pair of riding gloves. The number one injury motorcyclists receive in any accident or spill is road rash. Let the rocks and dirt imbed in the gloves. Your hands will thank you for it.
Motorcycle boots are also an important part of the ensemble. Sneakers, Crocs or any of the new polyfiber soled shoes are not recommended because the bottoms can melt in the intense heat of the bike. Leather jackets and pants are also a good idea. The myth is that motorcycle riders wear leather because they are rebels and outlaws. The truth is they wear leather to be protected, comfortable and safe.
Take The Right Training
For people who've hitched a ride on the back of someone 's bike or rode dirt bikes as a kid there is a tendency to think they know what they're doing and motorcycle riding is "natural". Holding up a heavy piece of hot machinery against head winds and gravity while going 60 MPH is not natural at all. You will need training on learning everything from how to stop and not fall over, to using your body 's weight correctly to turn and not fall over. There are many online sites to tell you where to get specialized training in your area.
At first it seems like you'll pay more for the clothes than the motorcycle and you'll never get to have any fun. But once you get the hang of the machine and its requirements, you'll be cruising down the road in style.
Pick The Right Bike
All your life you've seen big Harley-Davidsons go by and thought that was the bike for you or you noticed your neighbor with a Kawasaki Vulcan and wanted something that big and sleek. However, it 's important you pick a bike that is best for a beginner. Your first motorcycle won't be the only one you ever buy and you shouldn't buy it thinking you can't have a bigger or better one later.
Your first motorcycle should be easy to handle. It 's best to start off with something simple, light weight and inexpensive so you can get your boots dirty before expending the big bucks on a heavy hitter. Both Honda and Kawasaki have good beginner bikes. Harley-Davidson 's Sportster is the lightest and best bike for a beginner but it is more recommendable that you start with something else and move up to a Harley. Check motorcycle review sites for the best bikes for a newbie. If you ask 50 bikers you might get 50 different answers, but at least they can point you in the best direction.
Get The Right Gear
Most people know they can't hop on a motorcycle with some shorts and a pair of flip-flops and ride safely. There are clothing recommendations you should follow to prevent self injury. A helmet is required to ride a motorcycle safely and in some states is the law. I'm sure you've seen lots of people riding without helmets, but you don't have to pay their medical bills. The next requirement is a good pair of riding gloves. The number one injury motorcyclists receive in any accident or spill is road rash. Let the rocks and dirt imbed in the gloves. Your hands will thank you for it.
Motorcycle boots are also an important part of the ensemble. Sneakers, Crocs or any of the new polyfiber soled shoes are not recommended because the bottoms can melt in the intense heat of the bike. Leather jackets and pants are also a good idea. The myth is that motorcycle riders wear leather because they are rebels and outlaws. The truth is they wear leather to be protected, comfortable and safe.
Take The Right Training
For people who've hitched a ride on the back of someone 's bike or rode dirt bikes as a kid there is a tendency to think they know what they're doing and motorcycle riding is "natural". Holding up a heavy piece of hot machinery against head winds and gravity while going 60 MPH is not natural at all. You will need training on learning everything from how to stop and not fall over, to using your body 's weight correctly to turn and not fall over. There are many online sites to tell you where to get specialized training in your area.
At first it seems like you'll pay more for the clothes than the motorcycle and you'll never get to have any fun. But once you get the hang of the machine and its requirements, you'll be cruising down the road in style.
Getting Parts For A Motorcycle
Tune-ups don't require ignition coil replacements. Sometimes you need to replace the spark plug caps on the ends of the wires, though. The resistance value should be around 5K ohms. Honda Tune up kits generally has plugs, points and condensers in them, as a set. The number of miles you have on the bike engine and the overall care it has had makes a lot of difference in what you will need and what may keep going for you, for a while.
The tools that came in your kit, if complete, could barely get you by on repairs/tune-ups. If you own a bike, you need to know about how to repair it and have the tools to do the job. You can go to Wal-Mart, Costco and elsewhere and get giant tool packages for $100 or less that will get you going pretty well. An Impact Driver with a selection of bits and a good hammer will be a good investment! Steel screws, resting in aluminum threads for such a long time will setup corrosion in the threads that can spell trouble in some cases.
The cables are now 33 years old.... probably time for a change! If your bike is a 1973 CB350G, then it has a front disk brake that has its own maintenance issues. Same with the CB350F. The "regular" CB350 twins had cable operated drum brakes.
You can get a lot of stuff on EBay, as far as tune-up parts go. You need to identify the exact model, of course, before you move forward, plus a good tune-up guide and/or shop manual will be useful. I have a PDF version of a minor tune-up guide that is a reprint from a Cycle Guide magazine special booklet, but it only covers CB350 Twins. The principles of engine tuning are all the same, but the details between 2 and 4 cylinder bikes are somewhat different in layout of components.
If you used stabil or some kind of gasoline stabilizer for the winter, the carbs should be okay. I would certainly drain them and refill the tank with fresh gasoline. Yamaha makes a carb cleaner that you mix with gasoline and then funnel down the carb fuel line to clean out the parts in the float bowl while it is together. Depends on what kind of condition the parts are in, though. Honda carbs have numerous O-rings inside that need replacing after 33 years!
What you could do, and it may require some modification on your part, is to find a hard bag mount set for your bike and then go to a motorcycle salvage yard and see what they have that you may like. You would likely have to repaint them, but that requires a wind-free place to work and a bit of light sanding and paint and a few hours.
Alternatively, if you know how to work with fiberglass, you could build the bags you want yourself, but this is a long-term project that will eat up a lot of your spare time to do it quickly. You can also look on a few of the catalogue sites. In addition to that, try some of the e-groups for Kawasaki and Vulcan 's . There are a lot of specialized e-groups out there for specific makes and models of bikes. Look there, as there may be someone who is getting rid of a set that will work on your bike. It will certainly be less expensive than new.
Honda pretty much washes their hands of responsibility of supplying parts after about 10 years after end of production. They have made thousands of different models and dozens of variations of many of those, so the parts inventory and production considerations are staggering in any case.
Honda does have a vintage parts division, apparently in Japan who will make small quantities of some items that they still have tooling for, like exhaust systems for some of the fours. CB750 primarily. CMS in Holland is tied to them, to a certain extent and almost had them remake the missing #2 pipe for the 350Fs but the cost got too high.
Companies like apex cycle, retrobikes and a few others are having Asian companies remake some items. You won't be seeing any new crankshafts or engine cases coming from Honda or anyone else. Tooling and production of this stuff is way too expensive nowadays.
I have a source in Australia who makes new Dream and CB77 mufflers from stainless steel.
It is a small company and he 's willing to do the tooling in-house just to produce the parts, but he 's getting near retiring and that source will dry up one day. A company in NZ made some beautiful new CB77 mufflers a few years back, but the supply is now gone, I believe and they don't seem interested in doing another run again.
If there is sufficient demand, someone usually steps up and takes a shot at having parts made, but there are so many parts in a bike and so many models, that it is impossible to expect that the supply line for 40+ year old motorcycles is going to continue indefinitely. Brit bikes and scooters remained relatively unchanged for many years, so making parts for those is less of a stretch, than doing Honda camshafts for 250-305s... there were three versions of splines on just those parts.
The tools that came in your kit, if complete, could barely get you by on repairs/tune-ups. If you own a bike, you need to know about how to repair it and have the tools to do the job. You can go to Wal-Mart, Costco and elsewhere and get giant tool packages for $100 or less that will get you going pretty well. An Impact Driver with a selection of bits and a good hammer will be a good investment! Steel screws, resting in aluminum threads for such a long time will setup corrosion in the threads that can spell trouble in some cases.
The cables are now 33 years old.... probably time for a change! If your bike is a 1973 CB350G, then it has a front disk brake that has its own maintenance issues. Same with the CB350F. The "regular" CB350 twins had cable operated drum brakes.
You can get a lot of stuff on EBay, as far as tune-up parts go. You need to identify the exact model, of course, before you move forward, plus a good tune-up guide and/or shop manual will be useful. I have a PDF version of a minor tune-up guide that is a reprint from a Cycle Guide magazine special booklet, but it only covers CB350 Twins. The principles of engine tuning are all the same, but the details between 2 and 4 cylinder bikes are somewhat different in layout of components.
If you used stabil or some kind of gasoline stabilizer for the winter, the carbs should be okay. I would certainly drain them and refill the tank with fresh gasoline. Yamaha makes a carb cleaner that you mix with gasoline and then funnel down the carb fuel line to clean out the parts in the float bowl while it is together. Depends on what kind of condition the parts are in, though. Honda carbs have numerous O-rings inside that need replacing after 33 years!
What you could do, and it may require some modification on your part, is to find a hard bag mount set for your bike and then go to a motorcycle salvage yard and see what they have that you may like. You would likely have to repaint them, but that requires a wind-free place to work and a bit of light sanding and paint and a few hours.
Alternatively, if you know how to work with fiberglass, you could build the bags you want yourself, but this is a long-term project that will eat up a lot of your spare time to do it quickly. You can also look on a few of the catalogue sites. In addition to that, try some of the e-groups for Kawasaki and Vulcan 's . There are a lot of specialized e-groups out there for specific makes and models of bikes. Look there, as there may be someone who is getting rid of a set that will work on your bike. It will certainly be less expensive than new.
Honda pretty much washes their hands of responsibility of supplying parts after about 10 years after end of production. They have made thousands of different models and dozens of variations of many of those, so the parts inventory and production considerations are staggering in any case.
Honda does have a vintage parts division, apparently in Japan who will make small quantities of some items that they still have tooling for, like exhaust systems for some of the fours. CB750 primarily. CMS in Holland is tied to them, to a certain extent and almost had them remake the missing #2 pipe for the 350Fs but the cost got too high.
Companies like apex cycle, retrobikes and a few others are having Asian companies remake some items. You won't be seeing any new crankshafts or engine cases coming from Honda or anyone else. Tooling and production of this stuff is way too expensive nowadays.
I have a source in Australia who makes new Dream and CB77 mufflers from stainless steel.
It is a small company and he 's willing to do the tooling in-house just to produce the parts, but he 's getting near retiring and that source will dry up one day. A company in NZ made some beautiful new CB77 mufflers a few years back, but the supply is now gone, I believe and they don't seem interested in doing another run again.
If there is sufficient demand, someone usually steps up and takes a shot at having parts made, but there are so many parts in a bike and so many models, that it is impossible to expect that the supply line for 40+ year old motorcycles is going to continue indefinitely. Brit bikes and scooters remained relatively unchanged for many years, so making parts for those is less of a stretch, than doing Honda camshafts for 250-305s... there were three versions of splines on just those parts.
The Natural Beauty Of Leather
Leather is an incredibly wonderful natural fabric that 's been used for thousands of years. No man made material has been able to surpass the natural beauty and toughness of leather. It can be tanned and dyed. It 's tougher and lasts almost forever,if taken care of. Some leather if tooled makes beautiful wallets belts saddles rifle scabbards and other items.
Another advantages are in motorcycle clothes it gives a degree of safety in case of a spill. Leather conforms to your body like no other material.
Leather can be dyed by several methods one method is called drum dyeing a process where the item in immersed in dye and tumbled in a rotating drum. Aniline is Leather that is colored all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality hides can be used. One additional method is called Waxing, which is what the term "Waxy Cowhide" refers to. The cheapest Split Hides are occasionally run through a conveyor that uses a Wax/Dye Sublimation process to basically "melt crayons" into the hide. This can be either very expensive or very cheap, depending on how many imperfections in the hide there are and the type of machinery it 's run on. There is no grain on a Waxy Cowhide and it is almost as glossy as Patent Leather, so it has very few and limited uses. Most Waxy Cowhide in Motorcycle Apparel is of the cheaper variety.
Leather - is a material created through the tanning of hides, pelts and skins of animals, primarily cows. Leather is a very important clothing material, and its other uses are legion. Together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. Leather with the fur still attached is simply called fur.
In advertisements you may see the term distressed brown as a color. This is the natural color of the leather. All of the other colors are achieved by dyeing. When looking for leather items you may see the term Naked Leather this a term used to describe hides that are tanned and colored (dyed) but are not finished as you would normally think of. Since the finishing process is used to hide natural defects in the leather, Naked Leather hides must be hand selected for thickness, uniformity of grain, and lack of defects. Because they are unfinished, they are extremely soft to the touch and have that "broken-in" appearance and feel while still brand new. Naked Leather hides are not defect-free; they just have fewer imperfections.
Tanning is the process, where hides are chemically cured to prevent deterioration. The chemicals used in this process also enhance the flexibility of leather and improve its ability to withstand extreme humidity and temperatures. There have been recent advancements in tanning that produce even higher quality leather. Tanning is followed by another process that restores the natural lubricants lost during the conversion of rawhide into finished leather.
Nothing Equals Leather For Beauty, Function, And Versatility the qualities of leather - created by nature and preserved by the tanner - are superior to those of any man-made or synthetic material. Leather provides support. DURABILITY - Leather "breathes" allowing air in and moisture out. A natural insulator, leather protects against extremes in temperatures and humidity. BEAUTY - By its very nature, leather comes in a wide range of pleasing textures and surface patterns. It also takes well to a variety of finishing processes, designs, and color applications.
Another advantages are in motorcycle clothes it gives a degree of safety in case of a spill. Leather conforms to your body like no other material.
Leather can be dyed by several methods one method is called drum dyeing a process where the item in immersed in dye and tumbled in a rotating drum. Aniline is Leather that is colored all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality hides can be used. One additional method is called Waxing, which is what the term "Waxy Cowhide" refers to. The cheapest Split Hides are occasionally run through a conveyor that uses a Wax/Dye Sublimation process to basically "melt crayons" into the hide. This can be either very expensive or very cheap, depending on how many imperfections in the hide there are and the type of machinery it 's run on. There is no grain on a Waxy Cowhide and it is almost as glossy as Patent Leather, so it has very few and limited uses. Most Waxy Cowhide in Motorcycle Apparel is of the cheaper variety.
Leather - is a material created through the tanning of hides, pelts and skins of animals, primarily cows. Leather is a very important clothing material, and its other uses are legion. Together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. Leather with the fur still attached is simply called fur.
In advertisements you may see the term distressed brown as a color. This is the natural color of the leather. All of the other colors are achieved by dyeing. When looking for leather items you may see the term Naked Leather this a term used to describe hides that are tanned and colored (dyed) but are not finished as you would normally think of. Since the finishing process is used to hide natural defects in the leather, Naked Leather hides must be hand selected for thickness, uniformity of grain, and lack of defects. Because they are unfinished, they are extremely soft to the touch and have that "broken-in" appearance and feel while still brand new. Naked Leather hides are not defect-free; they just have fewer imperfections.
Tanning is the process, where hides are chemically cured to prevent deterioration. The chemicals used in this process also enhance the flexibility of leather and improve its ability to withstand extreme humidity and temperatures. There have been recent advancements in tanning that produce even higher quality leather. Tanning is followed by another process that restores the natural lubricants lost during the conversion of rawhide into finished leather.
Nothing Equals Leather For Beauty, Function, And Versatility the qualities of leather - created by nature and preserved by the tanner - are superior to those of any man-made or synthetic material. Leather provides support. DURABILITY - Leather "breathes" allowing air in and moisture out. A natural insulator, leather protects against extremes in temperatures and humidity. BEAUTY - By its very nature, leather comes in a wide range of pleasing textures and surface patterns. It also takes well to a variety of finishing processes, designs, and color applications.
10 Tips To Help Your Motorcycle Leather Last Longer
Your biker leather can be damaged by excessive moisture and dryness but with proper care Motorcycle jackets, boots, chaps and saddlebags can be kept looking very nice and last for years.
Check out these simple tips and your leather will look beautiful and last for years.
Generally speaking people like leather because it is easy to care for. It is not, however, indestructible.
In general, the more heavily finished a leather surface is, the more resistant it is to spills and stains.
Untreated leather absorbs, and is easily stained, by oils. Abrasive cleaners, and organic solvents can also harm it. Soap and water is good for routine cleaning, but commercially available leather cleaners may work better.
The latter often contain lubricating materials, which are intended to keep leather supple. Really dirty leather may require the use of a mild detergent solution but care should be taken, because some detergent solutions may not be pH balanced, containing compounds that could harm the leather.
Always follow the manufacturer 's cleaning instructions and test any cleaner on an inconspicuous area first. It is also a good idea to damp-wipe rather than soaking the leather with water.
If you love the smell of leather, the touch of it, the sense of protection it offers as well as the way it makes YOU personally feel, then read the top 10 leather care tips and additional information.
1.Unprotected leather is susceptible to spotting from water and other liquids; a newly purchased leather item should be treated immediately to prevent permanent stains. Be sure to use a product that will not clog the pores. Leather needs to breathe.
2.When using a commercial cleaner to clean you item be sure to get matching items cleaned at the same time. There may be a small color change after cleaning. This is natural and to be expected. If you get matching items cleaned at the same time this won't be a problem.
3.Prevention is the best cure. Treat your new item as soon as it arrives. Store in a dry environment, don't use harsh household chemicals and avoid preparations that contain alcohol.
4. If your leather gets wet hang it on a padded hanger and allow it to dry air dry. Apply a little conditioner when the leather is nearly dry.
5.Small repairs can be done with rubber cement. For example if the hem in a skirt is starting to unravel a little rubber cement saves the day.
6. For spills: Wipe up excess liquid immediately with a clean clothe or sponge. If necessary use clean lukewarm water and let the leather air-dry.
For spots and stains: Apply a mild, non-detergent soap solution with a clean, wet sponge. Rinse well and let air-dry.
Especially stubborn dirt may require a detergent solution, but care should be taken.
For butter, oil or grease: Wipe excess butter, oil or grease off the leather with a clean, dry cloth, then leave it alone as the spot should dissipate into the leather in a short period of time. Do not apply water to try to wash a butter, oil or grease mark.
7. Use Caution if using mink oil or other animal fats they will darken leather.
8. Avoid turpentine and mineral spirits as they can pull color.
9.Do not use waxes, or silicone formulas or other leather preparations that impair the ability of the leather to "breathe".
10.To remove gum from leather heat it with a hair dryer until it is completely dry and then rub it off with a dry cloth. If there is any marks left apply some conditioner.
With proper care, leather out wears denim 20 to 1. I've heard stories where a good quality, well-maintained leather jacket can last as long as 50 years! Find out everything you can about your leather jacket, get the right stuff and set aside time for mandatory cleaning. If you don't do it yourself, then pay a pro to clean your leather jacket for you. You can thank me later for that tip!
Check out these simple tips and your leather will look beautiful and last for years.
Generally speaking people like leather because it is easy to care for. It is not, however, indestructible.
In general, the more heavily finished a leather surface is, the more resistant it is to spills and stains.
Untreated leather absorbs, and is easily stained, by oils. Abrasive cleaners, and organic solvents can also harm it. Soap and water is good for routine cleaning, but commercially available leather cleaners may work better.
The latter often contain lubricating materials, which are intended to keep leather supple. Really dirty leather may require the use of a mild detergent solution but care should be taken, because some detergent solutions may not be pH balanced, containing compounds that could harm the leather.
Always follow the manufacturer 's cleaning instructions and test any cleaner on an inconspicuous area first. It is also a good idea to damp-wipe rather than soaking the leather with water.
If you love the smell of leather, the touch of it, the sense of protection it offers as well as the way it makes YOU personally feel, then read the top 10 leather care tips and additional information.
1.Unprotected leather is susceptible to spotting from water and other liquids; a newly purchased leather item should be treated immediately to prevent permanent stains. Be sure to use a product that will not clog the pores. Leather needs to breathe.
2.When using a commercial cleaner to clean you item be sure to get matching items cleaned at the same time. There may be a small color change after cleaning. This is natural and to be expected. If you get matching items cleaned at the same time this won't be a problem.
3.Prevention is the best cure. Treat your new item as soon as it arrives. Store in a dry environment, don't use harsh household chemicals and avoid preparations that contain alcohol.
4. If your leather gets wet hang it on a padded hanger and allow it to dry air dry. Apply a little conditioner when the leather is nearly dry.
5.Small repairs can be done with rubber cement. For example if the hem in a skirt is starting to unravel a little rubber cement saves the day.
6. For spills: Wipe up excess liquid immediately with a clean clothe or sponge. If necessary use clean lukewarm water and let the leather air-dry.
For spots and stains: Apply a mild, non-detergent soap solution with a clean, wet sponge. Rinse well and let air-dry.
Especially stubborn dirt may require a detergent solution, but care should be taken.
For butter, oil or grease: Wipe excess butter, oil or grease off the leather with a clean, dry cloth, then leave it alone as the spot should dissipate into the leather in a short period of time. Do not apply water to try to wash a butter, oil or grease mark.
7. Use Caution if using mink oil or other animal fats they will darken leather.
8. Avoid turpentine and mineral spirits as they can pull color.
9.Do not use waxes, or silicone formulas or other leather preparations that impair the ability of the leather to "breathe".
10.To remove gum from leather heat it with a hair dryer until it is completely dry and then rub it off with a dry cloth. If there is any marks left apply some conditioner.
With proper care, leather out wears denim 20 to 1. I've heard stories where a good quality, well-maintained leather jacket can last as long as 50 years! Find out everything you can about your leather jacket, get the right stuff and set aside time for mandatory cleaning. If you don't do it yourself, then pay a pro to clean your leather jacket for you. You can thank me later for that tip!
Some Great Tips To Help You Choose The Right Motorcycle
When you're getting ready to buy a new bike you have to think about what kind of riding you want to do, how much money you're willing to spend, and how dependable the motorcycle is that you're thinking of purchasing. It 's also a good idea to take some special courses about riding a motor bike, if you've never done so before, and to get a special endorsement on your license saying that you have that training.
It doesn't matter if you're a novice or an experienced rider, you still probably have a lot to learn and going to a course can do you a lot of good. Another advantage is that you might get a reduced rate on insurance if you've been to one of these courses. In Ohio, the classes are required and it is not legal to operate a motorcycle without the special classification on your license. Check the list of organizations at the end of this article for information about where to take classes.
If you haven't had that much experience, according to one large dealer, it is a good idea to get a smaller bike. They are easier to maintain, and less likely to be seriously damaged in the event of a fall or a minor collision. Large, faster bikes have larger displacement engines and design that emphasize speed over durability in the case of a small collision, so they are not advisable for new riders. For example if you drop a small bike it might cost fifty bucks to fix, but one of the bigger bikes would run you several hundred dollars to fix if the same thing happens.
For those of you with a few years experience under your belt who want to step up to the next level of motorcycling, buy a motorcycle that suits your needs. Do you want to ride on a track, on dirt, or on the open road? How much are you looking to spend? What kind of payments are you able to afford after paying maintenance, gas and insurance? There 's most likely going to be a loan agent right there at the dealership that can set you up with a loan. Get approved for a loan and you'll be able to figure out what kind of motorcycle you can afford.
Check in the Internet, magazines, and the dealership and ask your friends what they can tell you about prices and quality of motorcycles within your range. Find out what kind of report the bikes you like are getting from people who ride them every day. Ask around and make sure to get several opinions. It never hurts to hear what other people think.
Compare the benefits of buying new compared to buying a used cycle. New bikes come with a warranty, and old ones may have hidden problems that you can't see before you have ridden them for a while. The advantage, of course, is price.
Is it better to buy a motorcycle from a dealer or from an individual? You can get a good one at a good price from an individual if you're lucky. The advantage of buying from a dealer is that the dealer has a reputation at stake and would not want to sell you a dud. There 's a lot to think about. If you're a good mechanic you would be less scared of finding a few problems in the engine, and you might be willing to take a chance. If you don't know much about fixing bikes you might want to play it safe.
In the end it 's up to you. Just think it out and be careful to make the right decision.
It doesn't matter if you're a novice or an experienced rider, you still probably have a lot to learn and going to a course can do you a lot of good. Another advantage is that you might get a reduced rate on insurance if you've been to one of these courses. In Ohio, the classes are required and it is not legal to operate a motorcycle without the special classification on your license. Check the list of organizations at the end of this article for information about where to take classes.
If you haven't had that much experience, according to one large dealer, it is a good idea to get a smaller bike. They are easier to maintain, and less likely to be seriously damaged in the event of a fall or a minor collision. Large, faster bikes have larger displacement engines and design that emphasize speed over durability in the case of a small collision, so they are not advisable for new riders. For example if you drop a small bike it might cost fifty bucks to fix, but one of the bigger bikes would run you several hundred dollars to fix if the same thing happens.
For those of you with a few years experience under your belt who want to step up to the next level of motorcycling, buy a motorcycle that suits your needs. Do you want to ride on a track, on dirt, or on the open road? How much are you looking to spend? What kind of payments are you able to afford after paying maintenance, gas and insurance? There 's most likely going to be a loan agent right there at the dealership that can set you up with a loan. Get approved for a loan and you'll be able to figure out what kind of motorcycle you can afford.
Check in the Internet, magazines, and the dealership and ask your friends what they can tell you about prices and quality of motorcycles within your range. Find out what kind of report the bikes you like are getting from people who ride them every day. Ask around and make sure to get several opinions. It never hurts to hear what other people think.
Compare the benefits of buying new compared to buying a used cycle. New bikes come with a warranty, and old ones may have hidden problems that you can't see before you have ridden them for a while. The advantage, of course, is price.
Is it better to buy a motorcycle from a dealer or from an individual? You can get a good one at a good price from an individual if you're lucky. The advantage of buying from a dealer is that the dealer has a reputation at stake and would not want to sell you a dud. There 's a lot to think about. If you're a good mechanic you would be less scared of finding a few problems in the engine, and you might be willing to take a chance. If you don't know much about fixing bikes you might want to play it safe.
In the end it 's up to you. Just think it out and be careful to make the right decision.
The Oldest Motorcycle Names Live On
Royal Enfield and Harley Davidson have survived the test of time and have maintained loyal legions of fans.
Harley Davidson
This classic series of motorcycles has a long and storied history with a legion of fans that includes owners, motorcycle enthusiasts, old and young alike. Distinguished by its style, unique engine sound and fan loyalty, Harley Davidson motorcycles are unlike any bikes ever produced.
From modest beginnings in 1901, Harley Davidson Incorporated was the brainchild of William Harley who had developed a small, powerful engine. Like many engine manufacturers of the era, these engines were intended for use with existing bicycle designs, combining motorized power with pedal power. From a small shop in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Harley and his partner, Arthur Davidson embarked on a journey that would revolutionize the world of motorized transportation.
1903 saw the introduction of its first production motorcycle. The early Harley-Davidson bikes were popular as race machines. By the end of the decade, Harley Davidson was selling a version if its bikes for use as police vehicles. Shortly thereafter, The Company introduced a 45 degree V-twin engine design that would represent a style synonymous with Harley-Davidson for years to come.
The post-war years saw a rapid expansion in production, along with some ownership bumps in the road. The mid 1980s saw ownership shift from AMF to a group comprised of Harley Davidson management. The Company went public on the New York Stock Exchange in 1987. The rest, as they say, is history.
The big V twin engine configurations were reflected in many subsequent designs including the F Head, Flathead, Knucklehead, Panhead and Shovelhead, all exceeding 1000 cubic centimeters in displacement. The smaller V-twin designs reflected a smaller displacement under 1000 cubic centimeters until the introduction of the Evolution and Ironhead series of engines and are found on the Sportster X series bikes.
The V Rod, introduced in 2002, incorporates a liquid cooled 1130 cubic centimeter super bike engine. The VRSC models are unique in both style and performance from all of its predecessors. The 60 degree V twin engine features fuel injection and was developed with the help of Porsche.
Even the Harley Davidson logo has created incredible marketing potential with after market merchandise and accessory sales accounting for up to 5 percent of the Companys revenue. The distinctive HD eagle reflects the respect Harley Davidson enjoys from competitors and motorcycle fans.
Royal Enfield
The pride of British manufacturing companies, Royal Enfield has established a reputation that dates back to the mid 1800s. Like many early manufacturers of personal transportation, founder George Townsend focus on producing parts for existing bicycle designs, and by 1893 was producing and selling complete bicycles under the Enfield name. It was not long before Townsend turned the name Enfield and its slogan built like a gun into household words across Great Britain.
The most endearing product introduction by Royal Enfield has to be the Bullet. With a single cylinder, four stroke engine, the 1933 Bullet sported a dramatic front to rear rake making for truly classic line. World War II brought a one of a kind bike from Enfield, the Flying Flea. Complete with its own parachute and packing cage, the Flying Flea could be dropped from an aircraft along with the troops provided a means of motorized battlefield transport not previously available.
The Royal Enfield line even included a version of the famous red painted Indian motorcycles, after the company acquired the brand name rights. The RE Indians were discontinued in the 1960s. Intense competition from Japanese motorcycle producers during the 1960s and 1970s meant the Royal Enfield needed bikes that could match the speed and performance of the Asian bikes.
The answer was the Interceptor line of extremely fast motorcycles, with a top speed of over 105 miles per hour and able to cover the quarter mile in les than 14 seconds. Sadly, production could not keep up with demand, and the Interceptor became the last of the Enfield line to be produced in England.
Royal Enfield motorcycles are still produced in India and exported worldwide, including to the United Kingdom and to the United States. The famous Bullet bikes still anchor this legendary line of motorcycles with versions which includes the 500 cubic centimeter Elektra X.
Harley Davidson
This classic series of motorcycles has a long and storied history with a legion of fans that includes owners, motorcycle enthusiasts, old and young alike. Distinguished by its style, unique engine sound and fan loyalty, Harley Davidson motorcycles are unlike any bikes ever produced.
From modest beginnings in 1901, Harley Davidson Incorporated was the brainchild of William Harley who had developed a small, powerful engine. Like many engine manufacturers of the era, these engines were intended for use with existing bicycle designs, combining motorized power with pedal power. From a small shop in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Harley and his partner, Arthur Davidson embarked on a journey that would revolutionize the world of motorized transportation.
1903 saw the introduction of its first production motorcycle. The early Harley-Davidson bikes were popular as race machines. By the end of the decade, Harley Davidson was selling a version if its bikes for use as police vehicles. Shortly thereafter, The Company introduced a 45 degree V-twin engine design that would represent a style synonymous with Harley-Davidson for years to come.
The post-war years saw a rapid expansion in production, along with some ownership bumps in the road. The mid 1980s saw ownership shift from AMF to a group comprised of Harley Davidson management. The Company went public on the New York Stock Exchange in 1987. The rest, as they say, is history.
The big V twin engine configurations were reflected in many subsequent designs including the F Head, Flathead, Knucklehead, Panhead and Shovelhead, all exceeding 1000 cubic centimeters in displacement. The smaller V-twin designs reflected a smaller displacement under 1000 cubic centimeters until the introduction of the Evolution and Ironhead series of engines and are found on the Sportster X series bikes.
The V Rod, introduced in 2002, incorporates a liquid cooled 1130 cubic centimeter super bike engine. The VRSC models are unique in both style and performance from all of its predecessors. The 60 degree V twin engine features fuel injection and was developed with the help of Porsche.
Even the Harley Davidson logo has created incredible marketing potential with after market merchandise and accessory sales accounting for up to 5 percent of the Companys revenue. The distinctive HD eagle reflects the respect Harley Davidson enjoys from competitors and motorcycle fans.
Royal Enfield
The pride of British manufacturing companies, Royal Enfield has established a reputation that dates back to the mid 1800s. Like many early manufacturers of personal transportation, founder George Townsend focus on producing parts for existing bicycle designs, and by 1893 was producing and selling complete bicycles under the Enfield name. It was not long before Townsend turned the name Enfield and its slogan built like a gun into household words across Great Britain.
The most endearing product introduction by Royal Enfield has to be the Bullet. With a single cylinder, four stroke engine, the 1933 Bullet sported a dramatic front to rear rake making for truly classic line. World War II brought a one of a kind bike from Enfield, the Flying Flea. Complete with its own parachute and packing cage, the Flying Flea could be dropped from an aircraft along with the troops provided a means of motorized battlefield transport not previously available.
The Royal Enfield line even included a version of the famous red painted Indian motorcycles, after the company acquired the brand name rights. The RE Indians were discontinued in the 1960s. Intense competition from Japanese motorcycle producers during the 1960s and 1970s meant the Royal Enfield needed bikes that could match the speed and performance of the Asian bikes.
The answer was the Interceptor line of extremely fast motorcycles, with a top speed of over 105 miles per hour and able to cover the quarter mile in les than 14 seconds. Sadly, production could not keep up with demand, and the Interceptor became the last of the Enfield line to be produced in England.
Royal Enfield motorcycles are still produced in India and exported worldwide, including to the United Kingdom and to the United States. The famous Bullet bikes still anchor this legendary line of motorcycles with versions which includes the 500 cubic centimeter Elektra X.
Wear Motorcycle Helmets? That Is A Good Question!
Motorcyclists are always evaluating the use of motorcycle helmets. Is this simply a matter of preference or are there significant issues to be considered?
A friend of mine (Bill) has chosen to ride with a helmet, or at times without a helmet. He says it depends upon riding conditions for him.
One day he was on a two lane road, traveling about 50mph when a tractor trailer truck pulled out from the right side of the street to go the same direction. His thought was to maintain his speed and simply pass the truck. Which, most likely could be done. Unfortunately the truck driver did not have enough room for the turn, and stopped dead still, crossing both lanes.
Bill was now approaching the truck too fast and too close to stop safely. He tried breaking hard but immediately knew he was facing the side of the trailer head-on. With quick thinking he laid his Harley on the side and slid under the trailer and on down the road a couple hundred feet.
Relaying his story to me, he was flat on his back, feet first, with his arms spread out and his head bopping on the highway. When all was finished he gave credit to God for helping him and praised his destroyed helmet for saving his life. Plus, the leather jacket and gloves that had taken the tears in place of him.
My friend only suffered from some sore muscles and hurt pride. But, it brings up the subject of helmet safety.
In the KSL-TV News of South Jordan, the Police Chief ,Dan Pearson, is likewise teaching people that motorcycle helmets save lives, after losing three friends to motorcycle accidents in two years. All three suffered from head injuries and none were wearing motorcycle helmets.
Then, the police chief himself was involved in an accident on highway 89 North of Afton, Wyoming.
A truck towing a horse trailer had passed him and pulled in front of him, hitting the front of his motorcycle with the spare tire mounted on the back. Dan was thrown off his bike, landing headfirst. He says, This injury would have been a fatal blow if I had not had the helmet on. Dan suffered from bruises and a few broken bones.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration reports that motorcyclists survive a crash and receive less serious injuries when wearing a helmet. They report that at least 600 people are saved each year.
One question that is asked, motorcycle helmets might protect your brain but can it increase your chances of a broken neck?
Dr. Michael Yorgason, a surgeon at Montana Orthopedics and Sport Medicine, states that the findings from medical literature shows: autopsy studies done after fatal motorcycle accidents have shown that neck injuries and fractures are equally likely, whether you are wearing a helmet or not.
Yet, most medical reports support the use of motorcycle helmets. They believe that the helmet generally decreases the risk of head and brain injury significantly and surmise that wearing them does not increase your risk of neck injury.
An Italian study concluded that a helmet decreased injury by 66%.
A Thailand study found that after making motorcycle helmets mandatory, head injuries decreased by 41% in 2 years.
Now, in Kentucky, a study revealed that brain injury increased by 4.3 times when not wearing a helmet.
In an article written by Jonathan P. Goldstein, PhD. titled The Effects of Motorcycle Helmet Use on the Probability of Fatality and the Severity of Head and Neck Injuries. He concludes that there are a number of variables in a study that puts the study in question.
Major differences are held concerning helmet use or non-helmet use. Normal results compare death and injury rates are two and three times greater for non-helmet riders and increases in occurrence rates in repeal years that vary from 19% to 63%.
On one side: the helmet verses the non-helmet study fails to consider these two classes of riders. Stating that helmet riders are more cautious by nature.
One, they drive slower, thus have slower speeds in crash situations.
Two, they are less likely to have an accident.
Three, helmet wearers are less likely to drink and drive (alcohol or use of drugs). These behavior changes dramatically reduce a riders risk.
On-the-other-hand, factors to consider are:
1-average age of the biker
2-average miles driven each year, per biker
3-average experience of the biker 4-the size of the motorcycle driven.
So, between the size of the bike, potential speed, age, risk taking and alcohol ingestion; simply, cannot realistically prove the effectiveness of helmet use.
The Goldstein study did approach these variables in question. They reported a study that evaluates the effectiveness of motorcycle helmets in accident situations. The conclusions are:
1-Motorcycle helmets have no statistically significant effect on the probability of fatality.
2-Helmets reduce the severity of head injuries.
3-Past a critical impact speed of 13 mph, helmets increased the severity of neck injuries.
The report then concluded that helmet users face a trade-off between reductions in the severity of head injuries and increases in the severity of neck injuries.
Under these circumstances a mandatory helmet use law cannot be reasoned to be an effective method to stop an individuals death or injury when involved in an accident.
Perhaps other choices need to be considered in providing safety in motorcycle use. Here are three suggestions.
One, educate the general driving public (car and truck drivers) in road use with motorcycles.
Two, educate inexperienced motorcyclists on accident avoidance (evasive action) and the proper use of these powerful machines.
Three, create a strict enforcement of drunk driving laws. [Some studies show that alcohol consumption is the major factor in deaths and injury.]
Harley-Davidson offers basic and advanced training to 200+ dealerships in 30 states. Honda has four training centers. BMW is considering advanced training but says they tend to attract seasoned riders.
It is believed that training cuts panic. You need to know how to negotiate a curve and resist the urge to brake, etc.
Here are some other factors that need to be considered. Tires should be inflated to the proper level.
A riders visibility to be seen. Tests have shown that the plain white motorcycle helmets are the easiest to be seen. Clothing makes a difference between day/night.
US DOT findings discovered that following the Helmet Law Repeal in Texas and Arkansas from Aug/Sept of 1997 to May 1998, helmet use dropped to 52% in Arkansas and to 66% in Texas.
In Arkansas motorcycle fatalities rose 21% following the repeal and head injuries increased 18.5%. Texas fatalities rose 31%.
One court case in California disputed what standards were set for qualifying a helmet as safe. For a list of the US Government Compliance Testing of Motorcycle Helmets you can check to see if your helmet passed or failed. Check with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).
When I am on my motorcycle, I know what I am doing. I do not know what the other driver is doing. So, with the many facets of helmet use and considering the pro/cons, I choose to wear a helmet. You will have to decide for yourself!
A friend of mine (Bill) has chosen to ride with a helmet, or at times without a helmet. He says it depends upon riding conditions for him.
One day he was on a two lane road, traveling about 50mph when a tractor trailer truck pulled out from the right side of the street to go the same direction. His thought was to maintain his speed and simply pass the truck. Which, most likely could be done. Unfortunately the truck driver did not have enough room for the turn, and stopped dead still, crossing both lanes.
Bill was now approaching the truck too fast and too close to stop safely. He tried breaking hard but immediately knew he was facing the side of the trailer head-on. With quick thinking he laid his Harley on the side and slid under the trailer and on down the road a couple hundred feet.
Relaying his story to me, he was flat on his back, feet first, with his arms spread out and his head bopping on the highway. When all was finished he gave credit to God for helping him and praised his destroyed helmet for saving his life. Plus, the leather jacket and gloves that had taken the tears in place of him.
My friend only suffered from some sore muscles and hurt pride. But, it brings up the subject of helmet safety.
In the KSL-TV News of South Jordan, the Police Chief ,Dan Pearson, is likewise teaching people that motorcycle helmets save lives, after losing three friends to motorcycle accidents in two years. All three suffered from head injuries and none were wearing motorcycle helmets.
Then, the police chief himself was involved in an accident on highway 89 North of Afton, Wyoming.
A truck towing a horse trailer had passed him and pulled in front of him, hitting the front of his motorcycle with the spare tire mounted on the back. Dan was thrown off his bike, landing headfirst. He says, This injury would have been a fatal blow if I had not had the helmet on. Dan suffered from bruises and a few broken bones.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration reports that motorcyclists survive a crash and receive less serious injuries when wearing a helmet. They report that at least 600 people are saved each year.
One question that is asked, motorcycle helmets might protect your brain but can it increase your chances of a broken neck?
Dr. Michael Yorgason, a surgeon at Montana Orthopedics and Sport Medicine, states that the findings from medical literature shows: autopsy studies done after fatal motorcycle accidents have shown that neck injuries and fractures are equally likely, whether you are wearing a helmet or not.
Yet, most medical reports support the use of motorcycle helmets. They believe that the helmet generally decreases the risk of head and brain injury significantly and surmise that wearing them does not increase your risk of neck injury.
An Italian study concluded that a helmet decreased injury by 66%.
A Thailand study found that after making motorcycle helmets mandatory, head injuries decreased by 41% in 2 years.
Now, in Kentucky, a study revealed that brain injury increased by 4.3 times when not wearing a helmet.
In an article written by Jonathan P. Goldstein, PhD. titled The Effects of Motorcycle Helmet Use on the Probability of Fatality and the Severity of Head and Neck Injuries. He concludes that there are a number of variables in a study that puts the study in question.
Major differences are held concerning helmet use or non-helmet use. Normal results compare death and injury rates are two and three times greater for non-helmet riders and increases in occurrence rates in repeal years that vary from 19% to 63%.
On one side: the helmet verses the non-helmet study fails to consider these two classes of riders. Stating that helmet riders are more cautious by nature.
One, they drive slower, thus have slower speeds in crash situations.
Two, they are less likely to have an accident.
Three, helmet wearers are less likely to drink and drive (alcohol or use of drugs). These behavior changes dramatically reduce a riders risk.
On-the-other-hand, factors to consider are:
1-average age of the biker
2-average miles driven each year, per biker
3-average experience of the biker 4-the size of the motorcycle driven.
So, between the size of the bike, potential speed, age, risk taking and alcohol ingestion; simply, cannot realistically prove the effectiveness of helmet use.
The Goldstein study did approach these variables in question. They reported a study that evaluates the effectiveness of motorcycle helmets in accident situations. The conclusions are:
1-Motorcycle helmets have no statistically significant effect on the probability of fatality.
2-Helmets reduce the severity of head injuries.
3-Past a critical impact speed of 13 mph, helmets increased the severity of neck injuries.
The report then concluded that helmet users face a trade-off between reductions in the severity of head injuries and increases in the severity of neck injuries.
Under these circumstances a mandatory helmet use law cannot be reasoned to be an effective method to stop an individuals death or injury when involved in an accident.
Perhaps other choices need to be considered in providing safety in motorcycle use. Here are three suggestions.
One, educate the general driving public (car and truck drivers) in road use with motorcycles.
Two, educate inexperienced motorcyclists on accident avoidance (evasive action) and the proper use of these powerful machines.
Three, create a strict enforcement of drunk driving laws. [Some studies show that alcohol consumption is the major factor in deaths and injury.]
Harley-Davidson offers basic and advanced training to 200+ dealerships in 30 states. Honda has four training centers. BMW is considering advanced training but says they tend to attract seasoned riders.
It is believed that training cuts panic. You need to know how to negotiate a curve and resist the urge to brake, etc.
Here are some other factors that need to be considered. Tires should be inflated to the proper level.
A riders visibility to be seen. Tests have shown that the plain white motorcycle helmets are the easiest to be seen. Clothing makes a difference between day/night.
US DOT findings discovered that following the Helmet Law Repeal in Texas and Arkansas from Aug/Sept of 1997 to May 1998, helmet use dropped to 52% in Arkansas and to 66% in Texas.
In Arkansas motorcycle fatalities rose 21% following the repeal and head injuries increased 18.5%. Texas fatalities rose 31%.
One court case in California disputed what standards were set for qualifying a helmet as safe. For a list of the US Government Compliance Testing of Motorcycle Helmets you can check to see if your helmet passed or failed. Check with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).
When I am on my motorcycle, I know what I am doing. I do not know what the other driver is doing. So, with the many facets of helmet use and considering the pro/cons, I choose to wear a helmet. You will have to decide for yourself!
Your Prized Possession and Classic Bike Insurance
For many motorcycle owners, riding is more than just a recreational activity, it 's a lifestyle. Riding represents freedom, friends and fun. It 's what fuels daydreams and fills weekends. Vintage or classic motorcycles are the pride and joy of their owners many of whom like to parade and demonstrate them at classic bike festivals or other outdoor events.
With classic motorbikes the insurance implications are different to those with standard bikes. Motorcycle Insurance companies will normally insist on certain criteria on which they base the cost of the annual bike insurance premium for your policy and will also dictate whether your bike falls into the classic bike category.
With classic bikes it is generally acknowledged that an 'agreed value' insurance policy is the most effective way to insure. One of the main benefits of an agreed value motorcycle insurance policy is that you have the value of your vehicle agreed at the start of the policy, meaning if you have to make a claim there can be no doubt about the motorcycles worth.
To obtain an agreed value policy, insurers will usually request a fully completed vehicle condition form and 4 coloured photographs of the vehicle.
Classic bike insurance packages are specifically created to give owners peace of mind that their prized possession is covered for every eventuality
Generally, classic bike insurance premiums are much more competitive than an average policy premium based on the market value of a bike and even though older vehicles are more prone to breakdown and repairs and parts for specialist and obsolete models can incur a major expense, other factors for the classic bike insurance criteria override these and essentially reduce the risk therefore reducing the price.
So what are the factors which meet the classic bike criteria and how does this allow reductions in the motorcycle insurance premium.
* The motorcycle must be at least twenty years old.
* The policy will have a limited mileage restriction. This usually ranges from 2000, to 3500 or 5000 miles per annum. Obviously the lower the mileage restriction on a motorbike policy, the lower the usage on a public highway reducing the risk of a road traffic accident.
* The policyholder must have the sole use of another vehicle for daily use again this reduces the amount the bike is actually used on the road.
* The motorcycle must be kept in a secure, locked garage at the home address when not in use. This will reduce the theft risk of the bike which reduces the cost of the bike insurance premium.
* The usage on the policy is restricted to social, domestic and pleasure use only excluding commuting again possibly reducing the amount of time the motorbike is on the road.
* Drivers on a classic bike policy must generally be over the age of 30 and must have held a full motorcycle driving licence for at least 2 or more years. This again ensures a better risk based on age and experience, thus making a bearing on the premium.
There are usually many benefits provided under a Classic motorcycle insurance policy that would not be normally included under a standard motorcycle policy.
This may be automatic cover for all club organised rallies, cover for the insured motorcycles spare and dismantled parts whilst stored in a locked garage or other secure premises and possibly free breakdown recovery in addition to the main benefit of an agreed value.
Policies usually have a minimal excess of 50.00 pounds for both accidental damage, fire and theft claims and generally exclude the riding other bikes clause. This is so riders do not take advantage of the competitive lower classic bike insurance premium to use a much higher rated bike.
With classic motorbikes the insurance implications are different to those with standard bikes. Motorcycle Insurance companies will normally insist on certain criteria on which they base the cost of the annual bike insurance premium for your policy and will also dictate whether your bike falls into the classic bike category.
With classic bikes it is generally acknowledged that an 'agreed value' insurance policy is the most effective way to insure. One of the main benefits of an agreed value motorcycle insurance policy is that you have the value of your vehicle agreed at the start of the policy, meaning if you have to make a claim there can be no doubt about the motorcycles worth.
To obtain an agreed value policy, insurers will usually request a fully completed vehicle condition form and 4 coloured photographs of the vehicle.
Classic bike insurance packages are specifically created to give owners peace of mind that their prized possession is covered for every eventuality
Generally, classic bike insurance premiums are much more competitive than an average policy premium based on the market value of a bike and even though older vehicles are more prone to breakdown and repairs and parts for specialist and obsolete models can incur a major expense, other factors for the classic bike insurance criteria override these and essentially reduce the risk therefore reducing the price.
So what are the factors which meet the classic bike criteria and how does this allow reductions in the motorcycle insurance premium.
* The motorcycle must be at least twenty years old.
* The policy will have a limited mileage restriction. This usually ranges from 2000, to 3500 or 5000 miles per annum. Obviously the lower the mileage restriction on a motorbike policy, the lower the usage on a public highway reducing the risk of a road traffic accident.
* The policyholder must have the sole use of another vehicle for daily use again this reduces the amount the bike is actually used on the road.
* The motorcycle must be kept in a secure, locked garage at the home address when not in use. This will reduce the theft risk of the bike which reduces the cost of the bike insurance premium.
* The usage on the policy is restricted to social, domestic and pleasure use only excluding commuting again possibly reducing the amount of time the motorbike is on the road.
* Drivers on a classic bike policy must generally be over the age of 30 and must have held a full motorcycle driving licence for at least 2 or more years. This again ensures a better risk based on age and experience, thus making a bearing on the premium.
There are usually many benefits provided under a Classic motorcycle insurance policy that would not be normally included under a standard motorcycle policy.
This may be automatic cover for all club organised rallies, cover for the insured motorcycles spare and dismantled parts whilst stored in a locked garage or other secure premises and possibly free breakdown recovery in addition to the main benefit of an agreed value.
Policies usually have a minimal excess of 50.00 pounds for both accidental damage, fire and theft claims and generally exclude the riding other bikes clause. This is so riders do not take advantage of the competitive lower classic bike insurance premium to use a much higher rated bike.
First Time Bikers Tips On Insurance
There are some people, like myself, who can go on living their normal lives without the need for a use of a car. Not that I have any burning desire to save the planet from Global Warming, nor is it because I lack the funding for driving lessons. More because I feel that I have no use for it right now and will make the effort to learn to drive one day when the circumstance is propitious. However, there are those who thrill junkies and engulf themselves into the world of Yamaha, Ducati or Honda - in other words motorbikes.
For those of you who fall into the category of thrill junkies, then it is worth taking note on a few points before deciding to make a motorbike your sole form of transportation. The most obvious of all advices is get yourself good lessons. You cannot buy a motorbike without taking lessons and learning to ride one, even if you do have a Class D Driving license. Then research into the type of bike you would like, if you are a rich millionaire then the choices are endless but this will effect the price of your motorbike insurance. This the next very important step into your biking research, so here are a few basic principles about this type of insurance.
There are two types of motorbike insurance. One that covers the rider only, this plan covers the biker to ride any other bike up to a specific size. The second type of insurance covers the type of bike not the biker. This does not automatically mean that you will receive a discount for not making a claim, if you have not been involved in an accident. Motorcycle insurance are similar to normal vehicle insurance, however there are minor differences such as carrying guest liability insurance in certain areas, which offers injury cover for anyone riding on the back of the bike. In addition, the insurance factors in your age, previous driving record, the type of bike you ride and where you garage it.
Other differences in motorbike insurance are as follows; collision coverage that offer cyclists cover for accident s and damages to parts - this does not include cover for customized parts; comprehensive cover that offers reimbursement for vandalism or theft; uninsured motorcycle cover, whereby if the other party who had hit you is uninsured you will be covered for damages loss of wage and medical bills; underinsured motorist which is similar to the uninsured motorist plan only this time covering for extra expenses should the other party not have enough insurance claim.
There are other important factors to consider when buying a new motorbike. The first vital piece of information one must understand is that when purchasing a new motorbike, keeping the bike safe and secure may be an issue if you live in a high-risk area. Therefore parking your bike at your local garage overnight is recommended and will reduce your insurance premiums.
For first time motorcyclists, it is always best to shop around first and get to know the terms and conditions of motorbike insurance. The problems that occur with this kind of insurance is that very often people can pay too much for their insurance and not know what type of insurance to go for - much like the dilemma of buying normal motor insurance. The best thing to do in such cases is to approach a motorcycle insurance broker, who can not only provide you with advice and information, but also direct you to the best insurance policy suited for you.
For those of you who fall into the category of thrill junkies, then it is worth taking note on a few points before deciding to make a motorbike your sole form of transportation. The most obvious of all advices is get yourself good lessons. You cannot buy a motorbike without taking lessons and learning to ride one, even if you do have a Class D Driving license. Then research into the type of bike you would like, if you are a rich millionaire then the choices are endless but this will effect the price of your motorbike insurance. This the next very important step into your biking research, so here are a few basic principles about this type of insurance.
There are two types of motorbike insurance. One that covers the rider only, this plan covers the biker to ride any other bike up to a specific size. The second type of insurance covers the type of bike not the biker. This does not automatically mean that you will receive a discount for not making a claim, if you have not been involved in an accident. Motorcycle insurance are similar to normal vehicle insurance, however there are minor differences such as carrying guest liability insurance in certain areas, which offers injury cover for anyone riding on the back of the bike. In addition, the insurance factors in your age, previous driving record, the type of bike you ride and where you garage it.
Other differences in motorbike insurance are as follows; collision coverage that offer cyclists cover for accident s and damages to parts - this does not include cover for customized parts; comprehensive cover that offers reimbursement for vandalism or theft; uninsured motorcycle cover, whereby if the other party who had hit you is uninsured you will be covered for damages loss of wage and medical bills; underinsured motorist which is similar to the uninsured motorist plan only this time covering for extra expenses should the other party not have enough insurance claim.
There are other important factors to consider when buying a new motorbike. The first vital piece of information one must understand is that when purchasing a new motorbike, keeping the bike safe and secure may be an issue if you live in a high-risk area. Therefore parking your bike at your local garage overnight is recommended and will reduce your insurance premiums.
For first time motorcyclists, it is always best to shop around first and get to know the terms and conditions of motorbike insurance. The problems that occur with this kind of insurance is that very often people can pay too much for their insurance and not know what type of insurance to go for - much like the dilemma of buying normal motor insurance. The best thing to do in such cases is to approach a motorcycle insurance broker, who can not only provide you with advice and information, but also direct you to the best insurance policy suited for you.
Why Are These Motorcycle Jackets Safer And Sexier?
We all know that motorcycle leathers are beautiful and sexy. You see it every day in magazines and movies. However beauty isn't the most important thing to consider.
When considering the best motorcycle leathers there are many things to consider. While we like the beauty it 's the protection that 's most important. When purchasing motorcycle apparel, be sure that it provides superior protection to the areas that are to be protected. Usually, they are made to protect the part where the bone is just underneath the surface of the skin like the ankles, knees, hips, shoulders, knuckles and the like.
All leather is not the same. In this article, I will attempt to address the choices that a biker faces when purchasing motorcycle leathers. We will explore the different types of hides available, the different tanning processes and how to tell the difference.
Good quality leather products always begin with the leather itself. Your highest quality products will be made from large pieces of leather that have been graded for blemishes, thickness and uniformity of grain. Most all leather has blemishes. The severity and number of blemishes determine what type of product it will be used for and for what price.
This is why the products made with naked leather are so much more pliable and expensive - because they use a higher grade of leather with few blemishes. Leather is naturally tough keeps you warm and provides a layer of protection between you and the ground. Leather has proven to be the ultimate for biker leather.
Most of all we want thick heavy leather not thin patched together scraps. There are basically two hides that you will run across when looking for motorcycle leathers: buffalo, and cowhide. You may at times find such hides as lambskin, sheepskin etc. Just make a note that these hides are inferior and should not be considered riding grade leather.
Buffalo hide is a high quality leather second only to cow hide in toughness. Buffalo hide is very thick and can be tanned as top grain or naked leather. Most of the buffalo hide leather jackets are imported but are very high quality. These are not the same buffalo as the Bison common in America.
The most common and we believe best material used for motorcycle leathers is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. It is anywhere from 1-1.3mm thick, depending on the tanning process, is naturally warm, and will afford the utmost protection against road scrapes and scratches. Cowhide is the ultimate in riding grade leather it is the choice of riders everywhere.
Full grain or naked Leather is the ultimate in leather for the motorcycle Rider for several reasons. It will wear better than other leathers and will actually improve with age. These are made with choice thick hides and only dye is added. Full grain naked leather doesn't require a break in period.
Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is probably the most common material found in motorcycle leathers. It is not the best leather available, but with a medium price range, and thicknesses of 1 to1.2mm, top grain leather is considered to be a tough and strong riding gear.
While there are some biker leather articles made in the US most are very expensive. Most of the best buys are imported. Unfortunately US companies can't compete with the low labor rates overseas.
When considering the best motorcycle leathers there are many things to consider. While we like the beauty it 's the protection that 's most important. When purchasing motorcycle apparel, be sure that it provides superior protection to the areas that are to be protected. Usually, they are made to protect the part where the bone is just underneath the surface of the skin like the ankles, knees, hips, shoulders, knuckles and the like.
All leather is not the same. In this article, I will attempt to address the choices that a biker faces when purchasing motorcycle leathers. We will explore the different types of hides available, the different tanning processes and how to tell the difference.
Good quality leather products always begin with the leather itself. Your highest quality products will be made from large pieces of leather that have been graded for blemishes, thickness and uniformity of grain. Most all leather has blemishes. The severity and number of blemishes determine what type of product it will be used for and for what price.
This is why the products made with naked leather are so much more pliable and expensive - because they use a higher grade of leather with few blemishes. Leather is naturally tough keeps you warm and provides a layer of protection between you and the ground. Leather has proven to be the ultimate for biker leather.
Most of all we want thick heavy leather not thin patched together scraps. There are basically two hides that you will run across when looking for motorcycle leathers: buffalo, and cowhide. You may at times find such hides as lambskin, sheepskin etc. Just make a note that these hides are inferior and should not be considered riding grade leather.
Buffalo hide is a high quality leather second only to cow hide in toughness. Buffalo hide is very thick and can be tanned as top grain or naked leather. Most of the buffalo hide leather jackets are imported but are very high quality. These are not the same buffalo as the Bison common in America.
The most common and we believe best material used for motorcycle leathers is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. It is anywhere from 1-1.3mm thick, depending on the tanning process, is naturally warm, and will afford the utmost protection against road scrapes and scratches. Cowhide is the ultimate in riding grade leather it is the choice of riders everywhere.
Full grain or naked Leather is the ultimate in leather for the motorcycle Rider for several reasons. It will wear better than other leathers and will actually improve with age. These are made with choice thick hides and only dye is added. Full grain naked leather doesn't require a break in period.
Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is probably the most common material found in motorcycle leathers. It is not the best leather available, but with a medium price range, and thicknesses of 1 to1.2mm, top grain leather is considered to be a tough and strong riding gear.
While there are some biker leather articles made in the US most are very expensive. Most of the best buys are imported. Unfortunately US companies can't compete with the low labor rates overseas.
How Good Motorcycle Security Means Cheaper Insurance
One of the major risks of motorcycles is theft, causing the increase of motorbike insurance all the time. A good preventative measure is to fit your vehicle with security in order to reduce your insurance cost and to deter thieves from trying to steal your pride and joy.
Security devices generally come in different categories ranging from 1 to 5 (1 being the best and most expensive). Below is a list of the category description:
Cat 1: Electronic alarm and immobiliser combined system
Cat 2: Electronic immobiliser (Upgradeable to Cat.1 with an alarm system)
Cat 3: Mechanical device such as a lock or chain
Cat 4: Wheel locking devices
Cat 5: After-theft systems, such as trackers or datatagging.
Each product is reviewed every 12 months, so the category may depend on the age of the system fitted to your vehicle. Although an alarm and immobiliser may start life as a Cat.1 system, after 12 months it may not be considered to be at this level.
The most effective type of security is locks, chains and especially disk locks. Cat. 3/4 devices or physical devices cause the most problems to thieves as they make the bike immobile when anchored. Rather than an electronic system that is reliant on power, mechanical devices can also be the cheapest to buy, although they are perhaps the most effective.
Many insurers do not offer huge discounts when considering security on a motorbike insurance policy, especially when you compare the cost of the security system to the amount of discount on the insurance. Although, many insurers may make the security a condition of the policy, they will not provide a price without a certain category security system fitted to the vehicle; this can be in relation to the value of the vehicle.
An average Cat. 1 alarm and immobiliser system could set you back as much as 350.00 pounds including fitting. These types of systems can include functions such as an alert to your mobile phone if your bike thinks it is being stolen, or a proximity sensor when someone might get too close to your vehicle. Quite often, an alarm and immobiliser such as this may be included and fitted when purchasing a new vehicle.
Many major manufacturers fit a standard immobiliser to their newer models, manufacturers such as Honda, Kawasaki or Yamaha fit newer vehicles with an ignition security system. Manufacturers such as Peugeot fit many of their newer scooters with mechanical security known as a Boa Lock, which can be pulled out from the rear of the vehicle and secured to an anchor point; all in an effort to reduce the cost of your motorbike insurance, as scooters are the most common type of vehicle to be stolen.
The most effective type of security that will always bring cheaper motorbike insurance quotes is a secure brick built garage. Most insurers can give such a large discount for this that the insurer may add an endorsement to your policy, to state that the vehicle must always be kept in your garage whilst at the home address.
Cat. 5 devices (After-theft products) include devices such as trackers, or tagging systems such as alpha dot or datatagging. These devices are designed to recover the vehicle after a theft has taken place. Although tagging systems normally cost between 30 pounds and 60, pounds tracking systems can be very expensive, in addition to the initial cost of the system you will also have a monthly subscription cost to keep the service running.
Motorcycle security is always a good idea; everything helps against the theft of your vehicle. Insurers will always help by reducing the cost of your insurance in accordance with the type of security fitted and where the vehicle is kept at the home address.
Security devices generally come in different categories ranging from 1 to 5 (1 being the best and most expensive). Below is a list of the category description:
Cat 1: Electronic alarm and immobiliser combined system
Cat 2: Electronic immobiliser (Upgradeable to Cat.1 with an alarm system)
Cat 3: Mechanical device such as a lock or chain
Cat 4: Wheel locking devices
Cat 5: After-theft systems, such as trackers or datatagging.
Each product is reviewed every 12 months, so the category may depend on the age of the system fitted to your vehicle. Although an alarm and immobiliser may start life as a Cat.1 system, after 12 months it may not be considered to be at this level.
The most effective type of security is locks, chains and especially disk locks. Cat. 3/4 devices or physical devices cause the most problems to thieves as they make the bike immobile when anchored. Rather than an electronic system that is reliant on power, mechanical devices can also be the cheapest to buy, although they are perhaps the most effective.
Many insurers do not offer huge discounts when considering security on a motorbike insurance policy, especially when you compare the cost of the security system to the amount of discount on the insurance. Although, many insurers may make the security a condition of the policy, they will not provide a price without a certain category security system fitted to the vehicle; this can be in relation to the value of the vehicle.
An average Cat. 1 alarm and immobiliser system could set you back as much as 350.00 pounds including fitting. These types of systems can include functions such as an alert to your mobile phone if your bike thinks it is being stolen, or a proximity sensor when someone might get too close to your vehicle. Quite often, an alarm and immobiliser such as this may be included and fitted when purchasing a new vehicle.
Many major manufacturers fit a standard immobiliser to their newer models, manufacturers such as Honda, Kawasaki or Yamaha fit newer vehicles with an ignition security system. Manufacturers such as Peugeot fit many of their newer scooters with mechanical security known as a Boa Lock, which can be pulled out from the rear of the vehicle and secured to an anchor point; all in an effort to reduce the cost of your motorbike insurance, as scooters are the most common type of vehicle to be stolen.
The most effective type of security that will always bring cheaper motorbike insurance quotes is a secure brick built garage. Most insurers can give such a large discount for this that the insurer may add an endorsement to your policy, to state that the vehicle must always be kept in your garage whilst at the home address.
Cat. 5 devices (After-theft products) include devices such as trackers, or tagging systems such as alpha dot or datatagging. These devices are designed to recover the vehicle after a theft has taken place. Although tagging systems normally cost between 30 pounds and 60, pounds tracking systems can be very expensive, in addition to the initial cost of the system you will also have a monthly subscription cost to keep the service running.
Motorcycle security is always a good idea; everything helps against the theft of your vehicle. Insurers will always help by reducing the cost of your insurance in accordance with the type of security fitted and where the vehicle is kept at the home address.
Top 6 Facts You Should Know About Your New Motorcycle
Often experienced motorcycle riders who trade in an old bike for a brand new set of wheels find that they fall prey to an unfortunate set of statistics that occur along with new machines--more motorcycle accidents happen on new equipment than on old faithful rides. Don't assume that 100,000 miles on your old bike means equally capable handling of your new set of wheels. Instead, take the time to learn some facts about your new motorcycle.
Low Speed Handling
If possible, find a deserted level parking lot that has a relatively clean surface. You don't need bumps, slippery stuff, inclines, potholes or other defects or obstacles in order to learn more about your new motorcycle. You need to plan on spending time having fun and getting to know the quirks of the new wheels. Start by doing low speed circles with your eyes on the horizon and practice until you can do a 360 without putting your foot down and with the steering in full lock. This may require some adjustment in the position of the handlebar or the throttle cable in order to smooth the acceleration action. Follow tight circles with tight figure eights, again without touching your feet to the ground until the bike has come to a full stop. Force yourself to be consistent and precise. This will provide even more understanding of the throttle response in your new motorcycle.
Acceleration
Repeat the previous exercise at higher speeds--both the circles and the figure eights. Keep your eyes on the horizon and your feet off the ground so you learn the feel of the equipment as it corners correctly and consistently. Varying the speed of the engine while you practice these maneuvers will allow you to ride comfortably at highway speeds as well as in city traffic.
Cornering
Follow this with learning about the bike 's cornering limits. Learn to accept the grinding noise without flinching when a floorboard scrapes the pavement. A reflex jerk to avoid the sound of metal on pavement can cause you to steer right off the curve. If you feel more cornering ability is needed, you may need to change the suspension components.
Calling a halt
Practice stopping at low speed with a hard stop in order to learn the traction on the new tires, the sensitivity of the brakes and how the bike handles with the rear wheel locked. You need to know precisely what to expect in a real life panic situation and the best way to do that is to practice a hard, locked wheel stop especially in a sideways skid. Once you've practiced the rear action, learn about the power of the front brake. Be careful not to overdue front brake activity until you have a clear understanding of how much pressure the crucial front brake will take. Again, you may need to do some adjustments to the brake controls engagement points or positions to better suit your riding and stopping style.
Road Work
Now is the time to move your practice skills to the open road. Try to pick a relatively lightly traveled section or road that has some open corners so that you can practice cornering at highway speeds. Continuing to practice leaning techniques will help you to know the limits of the bike in every situation. Use a straight road with painted dotted lines and practice swerving the bike between the gaps on the road. If you can find safe stretches with raised dots for lane markers, you will be able feel immediately if you miss the swerve. Once again, in a safe mode, practice your hard stops at highway speeds. Be aware of following traffic before hitting the brakes suddenly and be sure to allow plenty of room in case you overrun your target point.
Double Up
Each of the exercises above should be repeated while carrying a passenger. Even if you do not carry anyone else regularly, knowing how your bike responds with a passenger is critical in any emergency situation--even in every day riding. Your motorcycle will respond differently, and you should know what will happen before getting on the open road. It 's important that your passenger understand what is going to happen so that they don't panic and throw the motorcycle off balance, thereby causing a serious accident.
Another advantage of going through these exercises in low or moderate speed and varying the load on the engine is that they serve as a good break-in regimen for the engine.
Now that you have your new motorcycle and have practiced the various maneuvers above, you will want to remember that in adverse weather or road conditions, the new motorcycle may not handle the same as did your old set of wheels. Take things really easy the first few times you ride in the rain or in icy situations. If you have the opportunity to practice in different weather experiences, you will have an even better feel for your motorcycle 's handling capabilities.
Low Speed Handling
If possible, find a deserted level parking lot that has a relatively clean surface. You don't need bumps, slippery stuff, inclines, potholes or other defects or obstacles in order to learn more about your new motorcycle. You need to plan on spending time having fun and getting to know the quirks of the new wheels. Start by doing low speed circles with your eyes on the horizon and practice until you can do a 360 without putting your foot down and with the steering in full lock. This may require some adjustment in the position of the handlebar or the throttle cable in order to smooth the acceleration action. Follow tight circles with tight figure eights, again without touching your feet to the ground until the bike has come to a full stop. Force yourself to be consistent and precise. This will provide even more understanding of the throttle response in your new motorcycle.
Acceleration
Repeat the previous exercise at higher speeds--both the circles and the figure eights. Keep your eyes on the horizon and your feet off the ground so you learn the feel of the equipment as it corners correctly and consistently. Varying the speed of the engine while you practice these maneuvers will allow you to ride comfortably at highway speeds as well as in city traffic.
Cornering
Follow this with learning about the bike 's cornering limits. Learn to accept the grinding noise without flinching when a floorboard scrapes the pavement. A reflex jerk to avoid the sound of metal on pavement can cause you to steer right off the curve. If you feel more cornering ability is needed, you may need to change the suspension components.
Calling a halt
Practice stopping at low speed with a hard stop in order to learn the traction on the new tires, the sensitivity of the brakes and how the bike handles with the rear wheel locked. You need to know precisely what to expect in a real life panic situation and the best way to do that is to practice a hard, locked wheel stop especially in a sideways skid. Once you've practiced the rear action, learn about the power of the front brake. Be careful not to overdue front brake activity until you have a clear understanding of how much pressure the crucial front brake will take. Again, you may need to do some adjustments to the brake controls engagement points or positions to better suit your riding and stopping style.
Road Work
Now is the time to move your practice skills to the open road. Try to pick a relatively lightly traveled section or road that has some open corners so that you can practice cornering at highway speeds. Continuing to practice leaning techniques will help you to know the limits of the bike in every situation. Use a straight road with painted dotted lines and practice swerving the bike between the gaps on the road. If you can find safe stretches with raised dots for lane markers, you will be able feel immediately if you miss the swerve. Once again, in a safe mode, practice your hard stops at highway speeds. Be aware of following traffic before hitting the brakes suddenly and be sure to allow plenty of room in case you overrun your target point.
Double Up
Each of the exercises above should be repeated while carrying a passenger. Even if you do not carry anyone else regularly, knowing how your bike responds with a passenger is critical in any emergency situation--even in every day riding. Your motorcycle will respond differently, and you should know what will happen before getting on the open road. It 's important that your passenger understand what is going to happen so that they don't panic and throw the motorcycle off balance, thereby causing a serious accident.
Another advantage of going through these exercises in low or moderate speed and varying the load on the engine is that they serve as a good break-in regimen for the engine.
Now that you have your new motorcycle and have practiced the various maneuvers above, you will want to remember that in adverse weather or road conditions, the new motorcycle may not handle the same as did your old set of wheels. Take things really easy the first few times you ride in the rain or in icy situations. If you have the opportunity to practice in different weather experiences, you will have an even better feel for your motorcycle 's handling capabilities.
Motorcycle Buying Guide - Different Motorcycle Styles
Buying a new motorcycle isn't always easy. There 's a lot of information out there to steer car buyers in the right direction, but very little for the average motorcycle buyer.
The first step to buying your new motorcycle is deciding which type or model style is right for you. Most people group bikes into three distinct categories: Street, Dual-Purpose, and Off-Road. But, those who know bikes well understand that there are many more subcategories of motorcycles to contend with on the sales block.
The biggest mistake beginning riders often make when purchasing their first motorcycle is settling for a low-budget street model (usually costing around $3,000 new). The problem is, these bikes have little power and can often sport an uncomfortable ride.
Touring Bikes are considered the Cadillac of motorcycles. Although still considered a street bike, this model is built for comfortable highway riding and long trips. Featuring a large powerful engine, touring bikes are very heavy and can be difficult to maneuver, especially at high speeds. These bikes are great for experienced riders and those who do a lot of highway riding. In-town and city riders should avoid them. Price too is a consideration when buying a touring bike since the prices for one of these models ranges form $10,000 to $20,000.
Cruisers are a more classic looking street bike and are by far the most common style of bike offered by today 's dealers. Style and comfort is key to the cruiser, which features large comfortable low-to-the ground seating. Another benefit to the cruiser style: the liberal use of chrome and loud exhaust note, two things many riders enjoy in their bikes. The cost for one of these can range form $5,000 to $20,000.
Sport Bikes are another sub category in the biking industry and are very popular among younger riders. Built for performance, sports bikes don't offer much in the way of comfort or convenience. These lightweight bikes feature the ultimate in aerodynamics. Not good for long trips, sports bikes are meant for just that: sport. Although relatively inexpensive (ranging from $5,000 to $20,000), sports bikes often carry higher insurance premiums do to a perceived risk by insurance carriers
Standard Bikes aren't as popular as they once were, but are still best for beginners since they are well-balanced, well powered and relatively light-weight which makes them easier to handle. Good for both city use as well as highway riding, standard bikes are a wonderful option for regular ordinary bikers who just want reliable transportation.
Motocross Bikes are meant solely for off-road use. They feature small engines and are extremely lightweight (usually weighing a mere 150-300 pounds). Used for recreational riding, motocross bikes are relatively inexpensive usually ranging in price form $1,500 to $6,000.
Dual-Purpose Bikes, on the other hand feature knobby tires and a high center of gravity that works well for off-roading, but still have headlights, turn-signals, and emissions control to make them street-legal.
As you can see, there are a lot of different kinds of bikes for a lot of different kinds of riders. The most important things to consider when choosing a bike of your own is:
-Your size and strength.
-Your experience and ability.
-Your budget.
Once you've narrowed your choices to the style you want most, it 's time to hit the showroom floor to see what your favorite manufacturer have.
The first step to buying your new motorcycle is deciding which type or model style is right for you. Most people group bikes into three distinct categories: Street, Dual-Purpose, and Off-Road. But, those who know bikes well understand that there are many more subcategories of motorcycles to contend with on the sales block.
The biggest mistake beginning riders often make when purchasing their first motorcycle is settling for a low-budget street model (usually costing around $3,000 new). The problem is, these bikes have little power and can often sport an uncomfortable ride.
Touring Bikes are considered the Cadillac of motorcycles. Although still considered a street bike, this model is built for comfortable highway riding and long trips. Featuring a large powerful engine, touring bikes are very heavy and can be difficult to maneuver, especially at high speeds. These bikes are great for experienced riders and those who do a lot of highway riding. In-town and city riders should avoid them. Price too is a consideration when buying a touring bike since the prices for one of these models ranges form $10,000 to $20,000.
Cruisers are a more classic looking street bike and are by far the most common style of bike offered by today 's dealers. Style and comfort is key to the cruiser, which features large comfortable low-to-the ground seating. Another benefit to the cruiser style: the liberal use of chrome and loud exhaust note, two things many riders enjoy in their bikes. The cost for one of these can range form $5,000 to $20,000.
Sport Bikes are another sub category in the biking industry and are very popular among younger riders. Built for performance, sports bikes don't offer much in the way of comfort or convenience. These lightweight bikes feature the ultimate in aerodynamics. Not good for long trips, sports bikes are meant for just that: sport. Although relatively inexpensive (ranging from $5,000 to $20,000), sports bikes often carry higher insurance premiums do to a perceived risk by insurance carriers
Standard Bikes aren't as popular as they once were, but are still best for beginners since they are well-balanced, well powered and relatively light-weight which makes them easier to handle. Good for both city use as well as highway riding, standard bikes are a wonderful option for regular ordinary bikers who just want reliable transportation.
Motocross Bikes are meant solely for off-road use. They feature small engines and are extremely lightweight (usually weighing a mere 150-300 pounds). Used for recreational riding, motocross bikes are relatively inexpensive usually ranging in price form $1,500 to $6,000.
Dual-Purpose Bikes, on the other hand feature knobby tires and a high center of gravity that works well for off-roading, but still have headlights, turn-signals, and emissions control to make them street-legal.
As you can see, there are a lot of different kinds of bikes for a lot of different kinds of riders. The most important things to consider when choosing a bike of your own is:
-Your size and strength.
-Your experience and ability.
-Your budget.
Once you've narrowed your choices to the style you want most, it 's time to hit the showroom floor to see what your favorite manufacturer have.
Motorcycle Insurance - Coverage Basics for Motorcyclists
Buying the right kind (and the right amount) of motorcycle insurance can appear complicated - but it doesn't have to be! When shopping for insurance, there are three main types of policies to be considered:
Liability:
Liability insurance is the least expensive policy you can buy, and for good reason. It 's basically designed to protect the other guy and his bike - not you or yours.
Collision:
Collision insurance, on the other hand, will help pay for your bike 's repairs in the event of an accident.
Comprehensive:
Comprehensive is well, shall we say, the most comprehensive policy you can buy covering everything from, fire, theft and vandalism, as well as accidents.
When shopping around for motorcycle insurance, it 's important to understand every limitation of the policy you choose. For instance, a higher deductible will help lower your monthly premiums, but in the event of a claim, you will pay more out-of-pocket expenses. Another thing to consider is whether or not your policy will pay to replace your bike in the event it is totaled, or if the insurance company will pay your claim based on your bike 's depreciated value. This can make a huge difference between having enough money to buy the new bike and getting stuck taking whatever you can afford.
Of course, there are ways to get your premium down. Some of thing 's an insurance carrier will consider when setting your rate includes:
-The size of your motorcycle.
-What kind and brand it is.
-How old you are.
-Your driving record (have you had any previous accidents, claims or speeding tickets?).
-What you will use the bike for ex: to ride to work or for enjoyment.
-How many miles you'll be wracking up on your bike every year.
-Where you live.
-What type od extras your bike has (face it, all the customized stuff that makes your bike great will also cost the insurance company more to replace should it be involved in an accident or stolen).
While every insurance carrier will consider these things when setting your individual insurance rate, there are ways to lower your premium - now and in the future. The first is to pay off any loans you have on your bike as soon as possible. When you finance your motorcycle, the bank requires a certain amount of insurance to cover the loan, but once it is paid in full, how much and what types of coverage you carry is totally up to you, leaving you to decide how much risk you want to take.
The second is to keep your driving record clean. Every claim you submit and every traffic violation you receive will add cost to your insurance premiums. Keep that in mind the next time you speed down the highway.
Make sure you tell your insurance agent if your bike is stored during the winter months (or any time of the year). The less it 's on the road, the less you will pay for insurance.
Also, keep up your credit score. It 's a little known fact among the general population, but more and more insurance companies are looking at a client 's credit score to determine how responsible they are. And how much they should charge them for their insurance. Statistics have shown that those with higher credit scores submit fewer claims - which is good business for insurers.
Buying motorcycle insurance is much like buying any other type of insurance. The key to getting a good deal is shopping around and making sure that you clearly understand the policy that you've chosen. Just because one company 's premiums are lower, doesn't necessarily make it a better deal.
Liability:
Liability insurance is the least expensive policy you can buy, and for good reason. It 's basically designed to protect the other guy and his bike - not you or yours.
Collision:
Collision insurance, on the other hand, will help pay for your bike 's repairs in the event of an accident.
Comprehensive:
Comprehensive is well, shall we say, the most comprehensive policy you can buy covering everything from, fire, theft and vandalism, as well as accidents.
When shopping around for motorcycle insurance, it 's important to understand every limitation of the policy you choose. For instance, a higher deductible will help lower your monthly premiums, but in the event of a claim, you will pay more out-of-pocket expenses. Another thing to consider is whether or not your policy will pay to replace your bike in the event it is totaled, or if the insurance company will pay your claim based on your bike 's depreciated value. This can make a huge difference between having enough money to buy the new bike and getting stuck taking whatever you can afford.
Of course, there are ways to get your premium down. Some of thing 's an insurance carrier will consider when setting your rate includes:
-The size of your motorcycle.
-What kind and brand it is.
-How old you are.
-Your driving record (have you had any previous accidents, claims or speeding tickets?).
-What you will use the bike for ex: to ride to work or for enjoyment.
-How many miles you'll be wracking up on your bike every year.
-Where you live.
-What type od extras your bike has (face it, all the customized stuff that makes your bike great will also cost the insurance company more to replace should it be involved in an accident or stolen).
While every insurance carrier will consider these things when setting your individual insurance rate, there are ways to lower your premium - now and in the future. The first is to pay off any loans you have on your bike as soon as possible. When you finance your motorcycle, the bank requires a certain amount of insurance to cover the loan, but once it is paid in full, how much and what types of coverage you carry is totally up to you, leaving you to decide how much risk you want to take.
The second is to keep your driving record clean. Every claim you submit and every traffic violation you receive will add cost to your insurance premiums. Keep that in mind the next time you speed down the highway.
Make sure you tell your insurance agent if your bike is stored during the winter months (or any time of the year). The less it 's on the road, the less you will pay for insurance.
Also, keep up your credit score. It 's a little known fact among the general population, but more and more insurance companies are looking at a client 's credit score to determine how responsible they are. And how much they should charge them for their insurance. Statistics have shown that those with higher credit scores submit fewer claims - which is good business for insurers.
Buying motorcycle insurance is much like buying any other type of insurance. The key to getting a good deal is shopping around and making sure that you clearly understand the policy that you've chosen. Just because one company 's premiums are lower, doesn't necessarily make it a better deal.
Special Tips to Get The Right Size Biker Leather Clothing
Get it right the first time you will surely be disappointed if your beautiful leathers arrive and they don't fit correctly. Online is a great place to buy leathers but you want to be sure to get your size right. Making a mistake here may mean sending it back and that means extra costs.
Many biker leather sites have sizing charts and you will use these measurement procedures and the sizing chart to determine your final size.
First: how to measure for the correct size For women Measure around the fullest part of bust under arms with arms relaxed down at sides. For men Chest:Measure around chest just under arms across shoulder blades with arms relaxed down at sides.For Coat/Length: Measure from the highest point of the shoulder down.
Height: Measure from top of head down standing barefoot on a hard flat surface with normal posture.
Hips: Measure around fullest part of body at the top of legs with feet together.
Inseam: Measure from inside crotch seam to the hem of pants that fit you well.
Waist: Measure around natural waistline, which appears as crease when bending to one side.
Neck: Measure around fullest part of neck.
Sleeve: Measure from center back of neck, over point of shoulder, and down outside of arm past elbow to wrist with arm relaxed.
LEATHER JACKETS and VESTS Leather jackets have number sizes that correspond to chest inches. For example, a size 46 jackets would measure 46 inches. It is best to measure your chest while wearing a shirt and then to order the next size higher in a leather jacket or vest. For example, if your chest measures 45-46 inches, then order a Size 48.
To measure, use a standard tape measure and wrap the tape measure around your back, just under your armpits and then loosely across your chest. If your waist size exceeds your chest size, then use your waist measurement and go up one size. You can also supply us with your measurements at the time of the order.
You want to choose a jacket that is big enough for your actual chest measurement. And you want to make sure the size will be big enough for your belly (if you have one). The max belly for any size jacket is approximately 6" less than the jacket size (example: max belly for a 46 is a 40" belly).
Size charts for chaps are listed in most sizing charts. The most important measurement for chaps is the thigh. Using a standard tape measure, measure around the thickest part of your thigh while wearing jeans or pants. Do not order a pair of chaps that are less than your thigh measurement. Each pair of chaps can be adjusted down should your waist size be less than what is listed in the size chart.
If they are going to be worn for cold weather riding put on all of your under garments and then take your measurements.
Helmet size charts are listed with the description for each helmet. To measure your head, use a standard tape measure and wrap the tape measure around the back of your head, just above the ears and then across the forehead. If your head size is between two sizes, order the smaller size, as it is better if the helmet fits tighter than too loose.
Please take into account the clothing you will be wearing underneath your jacket or vest when selecting your size. Your shirt size will not necessarily be your jacket or vest size.
In order to provide maximum protection while riding, you should purchase leathers that are designed for your riding style and that fit comfortably and properly.
Please take into account the clothing you will be wearing underneath your vest when selecting your size. Your shirt size will not necessarily be your vest size.
If you have any doubts be sure and send an email describing any questions you may have.
Many biker leather sites have sizing charts and you will use these measurement procedures and the sizing chart to determine your final size.
First: how to measure for the correct size For women Measure around the fullest part of bust under arms with arms relaxed down at sides. For men Chest:Measure around chest just under arms across shoulder blades with arms relaxed down at sides.For Coat/Length: Measure from the highest point of the shoulder down.
Height: Measure from top of head down standing barefoot on a hard flat surface with normal posture.
Hips: Measure around fullest part of body at the top of legs with feet together.
Inseam: Measure from inside crotch seam to the hem of pants that fit you well.
Waist: Measure around natural waistline, which appears as crease when bending to one side.
Neck: Measure around fullest part of neck.
Sleeve: Measure from center back of neck, over point of shoulder, and down outside of arm past elbow to wrist with arm relaxed.
LEATHER JACKETS and VESTS Leather jackets have number sizes that correspond to chest inches. For example, a size 46 jackets would measure 46 inches. It is best to measure your chest while wearing a shirt and then to order the next size higher in a leather jacket or vest. For example, if your chest measures 45-46 inches, then order a Size 48.
To measure, use a standard tape measure and wrap the tape measure around your back, just under your armpits and then loosely across your chest. If your waist size exceeds your chest size, then use your waist measurement and go up one size. You can also supply us with your measurements at the time of the order.
You want to choose a jacket that is big enough for your actual chest measurement. And you want to make sure the size will be big enough for your belly (if you have one). The max belly for any size jacket is approximately 6" less than the jacket size (example: max belly for a 46 is a 40" belly).
Size charts for chaps are listed in most sizing charts. The most important measurement for chaps is the thigh. Using a standard tape measure, measure around the thickest part of your thigh while wearing jeans or pants. Do not order a pair of chaps that are less than your thigh measurement. Each pair of chaps can be adjusted down should your waist size be less than what is listed in the size chart.
If they are going to be worn for cold weather riding put on all of your under garments and then take your measurements.
Helmet size charts are listed with the description for each helmet. To measure your head, use a standard tape measure and wrap the tape measure around the back of your head, just above the ears and then across the forehead. If your head size is between two sizes, order the smaller size, as it is better if the helmet fits tighter than too loose.
Please take into account the clothing you will be wearing underneath your jacket or vest when selecting your size. Your shirt size will not necessarily be your jacket or vest size.
In order to provide maximum protection while riding, you should purchase leathers that are designed for your riding style and that fit comfortably and properly.
Please take into account the clothing you will be wearing underneath your vest when selecting your size. Your shirt size will not necessarily be your vest size.
If you have any doubts be sure and send an email describing any questions you may have.
Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle
Harley Davidson has been considered as the iconic American bile for ages and owning this bike is luxury for some and sheer passion for alot of others.
Harley Davidson Motor Company based in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in USA is the manufacturer of these fine motorcycles.
The Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle happens to be the proud member of the Harley Davidson Motorcycles family and came into existence in the year 1958.
The Sportsters bikes were inaccurately based on the then popular K-model racer. The first ever Harley Davidson Sportster was pretty lightweight, relatively narrow and stripped down and had earned a good amount fanfare among the sports bike enthusiasts.
Many bike lovers believe that the Harley Davidson Sportster gradually evolved to become the Harley 's cruiser bike model.
There is a group of people who also like to call this beautiful bike as the semi-sports bike, now that is an interesting way to name a bike!
Today 's evolved Sportster resembles the XLCH Sportster bike model that was created in the year 1958 but amusing enough every single part of the Sportster is different when compared to the XLCH Sportster of 1958.
The batteries and battery boxes, engines, carburetors and air cleaners, exhaust, mufflers, brakes and rotors, rotors, cables and charges, gas tank, oil tank, swing arm, rear shocks, wheels, forks, frames, everything is different but surprisingly the resemblance is austere.
One has to bear in mind that Harley Davidson bikes have always been considered as or rather was intended to be the chopper style bikes. In fact it was Harley Davidson bike that has given a rise to the new whole new cult of custom created bikes.
People often find this fact as contradictory but then if you have ever owned a Harley Davidson or have been an avid admirer of any model of Harleys you would know what it means to be believe in evolution but not revolution.
It is this characteristic of the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle that has made the bike what it is today, a truly retro yet state-of-the-art bike till this date.
It is for this fact that the Harley Davidson motorcycle company, which is the oldest motorcycle manufacturing company, has retained its popularity and credibility as the one of the most renowned motorcycle companies in the world.
The Sportster Motorcycle too lives up to the standards set by the earlier models of Harley Davidson 's motorcycle company. By this yardstick the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle is a real-time example of the evolving work or let 's say a work in progress. Have you ever seen two Sportsters that looked exactly the same?
Believe me one doesn't have to be a Harley Davidson motorcycle fanatic to be able to answer this. Any layman who knows a little bit about Harleys will answer the question. You will never find two Sportsters that look same, it is again for the reason that the like any other Harley Davidson bike, the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle too is full of possibilities when it comes to the additions and modifications.
This is especially true for the basic XLH 883 and XLH 1200 models. The type and number of modifications that you can do to your Harleys Sportster can be limited only by your own creativity and imagination.
Whether it 's engine performance, safety accessories, comfort and convenience accessories, appearance accessories, the possibilities are many.
It is the final touches that you give to your Sportster that lends the personality to your Sportster.
No wonder that even today a well-maintained and well-treated Sportster is capable of fetching you a 100% of the original cost price as the resale value.
Harley Davidson Motor Company based in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in USA is the manufacturer of these fine motorcycles.
The Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle happens to be the proud member of the Harley Davidson Motorcycles family and came into existence in the year 1958.
The Sportsters bikes were inaccurately based on the then popular K-model racer. The first ever Harley Davidson Sportster was pretty lightweight, relatively narrow and stripped down and had earned a good amount fanfare among the sports bike enthusiasts.
Many bike lovers believe that the Harley Davidson Sportster gradually evolved to become the Harley 's cruiser bike model.
There is a group of people who also like to call this beautiful bike as the semi-sports bike, now that is an interesting way to name a bike!
Today 's evolved Sportster resembles the XLCH Sportster bike model that was created in the year 1958 but amusing enough every single part of the Sportster is different when compared to the XLCH Sportster of 1958.
The batteries and battery boxes, engines, carburetors and air cleaners, exhaust, mufflers, brakes and rotors, rotors, cables and charges, gas tank, oil tank, swing arm, rear shocks, wheels, forks, frames, everything is different but surprisingly the resemblance is austere.
One has to bear in mind that Harley Davidson bikes have always been considered as or rather was intended to be the chopper style bikes. In fact it was Harley Davidson bike that has given a rise to the new whole new cult of custom created bikes.
People often find this fact as contradictory but then if you have ever owned a Harley Davidson or have been an avid admirer of any model of Harleys you would know what it means to be believe in evolution but not revolution.
It is this characteristic of the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle that has made the bike what it is today, a truly retro yet state-of-the-art bike till this date.
It is for this fact that the Harley Davidson motorcycle company, which is the oldest motorcycle manufacturing company, has retained its popularity and credibility as the one of the most renowned motorcycle companies in the world.
The Sportster Motorcycle too lives up to the standards set by the earlier models of Harley Davidson 's motorcycle company. By this yardstick the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle is a real-time example of the evolving work or let 's say a work in progress. Have you ever seen two Sportsters that looked exactly the same?
Believe me one doesn't have to be a Harley Davidson motorcycle fanatic to be able to answer this. Any layman who knows a little bit about Harleys will answer the question. You will never find two Sportsters that look same, it is again for the reason that the like any other Harley Davidson bike, the Harley Davidson Sportster Motorcycle too is full of possibilities when it comes to the additions and modifications.
This is especially true for the basic XLH 883 and XLH 1200 models. The type and number of modifications that you can do to your Harleys Sportster can be limited only by your own creativity and imagination.
Whether it 's engine performance, safety accessories, comfort and convenience accessories, appearance accessories, the possibilities are many.
It is the final touches that you give to your Sportster that lends the personality to your Sportster.
No wonder that even today a well-maintained and well-treated Sportster is capable of fetching you a 100% of the original cost price as the resale value.
Finding Your First Scooter Insurance Without The Headache
Researching and buying cheap scooter insurance can be a lengthy process, especially if you have bought your first scooter and are not sure about what steps to take. Purchasing insurance is not the most exciting experience but it is something that is imperative and without it you could risk losing a lot of money or face hefty court fines should something go wrong. The whole point of insurance is so that it covers you for any incidences, accidents, theft, damages and third party damages.
Some people may find that whilst looking for cheap scooter insurance terms like 'fully comprehensive' or 'third party cover' will crop up and if you have no experience in dealing with these then you will need to get to know your insurance terminology. Some may also find the process frustrating, especially when one comes across many different companies offering different deals and discounts. The trouble is which one is the right one? How do you choose the right one?
There is no concrete answer to this question unfortunately. This is something only you can decide for yourself. Some may feel that because there are so many offers out there, it is unlikely that they will find the right one for them and that there are too many to choose from. On the contrary, because there are so many insurance companies, there are more reasons for you to find the right cheap scooter insurance by identifying the one for you.
First timers will however, find that they will be charged more. Unfortunate as this is, the truth of the matter is that you have very little experience on the road and therefore are seen as higher risk. Majority of claims made are from new riders, in comparison to the number of older more experienced riders. Unfair as it may seem, this is the way insurance work and believe me when I say that it does get cheaper.
Often with insurance policies, you will find that the policies will offer you more as time goes by, especially if you have never made a claim. However, for those seeking cheap scooter insurance, you need to consider the services offered with the price quoted. For instance, fully comprehensive insurance covers everything, which includes third party cover, fire theft, accidental damage, loss and malicious damage. This is more expensive, but for those who can afford it may well benefit from this policy. This is recommended for first timers though, so it is worth considering. There are however, full comprehensive insurance that is cheaper and more affordable.
Other terms such as third party only cover, is exactly what it says it is - this will only cover for third party damages or death. This will ensure that you are covered for any third party liability including their property. There are also a third party fire and theft cover, which will only cover for those three. Bear in mind that damages caused by you, or any modifications made on the bike will not be covered.
You will also approach the term excess, which applies to you and not your insurer. Compulsory excess is the amount that your insurer has quoted for you to pay, which can cover for fire or theft. This is usually a requirement and varies according to your own circumstances. Voluntary excess refers to you agreeing with the insurer to pay a larger amount than the amount you would pay for a compulsory excess.
As a first time applicant, you will not necessarily need to worry about things like social and domestic use, business or foreign policy cover. However, it is always a good idea to get to know these terms and understand their importance. Your first priority is to recognise which one applies to you. Having already mentioned that you may have to expect your policy to be slightly more expensive than that of an experienced rider, you will however be pleased to know that you will find some insurers offer deals or discounts.
Cheap scooter insurance will include third party cover, theft and damages. If you have decided that you will be the sole rider and do not need third party cover, remember you are not just covering for someone else riding the bike but also for damage to his or her property or any health expensive.
Your next step is to seek advice from an insurance broker, if you are still feeling unsure. Often they will point you to the right direction to the best place to find an affordable insurance policy. Always enquire about deals and discounts, as they are more than happy to find this for you.
If you choose not to approach a professional, try talking to experienced riders and gain advice on what steps they took to find their first insurance policy. Remember not to go for the first thing you see, unless of course it is a good policy. The chances are you will need to shop around so do this as soon as you buy your first scooter. Never leave this too late.
Some people may find that whilst looking for cheap scooter insurance terms like 'fully comprehensive' or 'third party cover' will crop up and if you have no experience in dealing with these then you will need to get to know your insurance terminology. Some may also find the process frustrating, especially when one comes across many different companies offering different deals and discounts. The trouble is which one is the right one? How do you choose the right one?
There is no concrete answer to this question unfortunately. This is something only you can decide for yourself. Some may feel that because there are so many offers out there, it is unlikely that they will find the right one for them and that there are too many to choose from. On the contrary, because there are so many insurance companies, there are more reasons for you to find the right cheap scooter insurance by identifying the one for you.
First timers will however, find that they will be charged more. Unfortunate as this is, the truth of the matter is that you have very little experience on the road and therefore are seen as higher risk. Majority of claims made are from new riders, in comparison to the number of older more experienced riders. Unfair as it may seem, this is the way insurance work and believe me when I say that it does get cheaper.
Often with insurance policies, you will find that the policies will offer you more as time goes by, especially if you have never made a claim. However, for those seeking cheap scooter insurance, you need to consider the services offered with the price quoted. For instance, fully comprehensive insurance covers everything, which includes third party cover, fire theft, accidental damage, loss and malicious damage. This is more expensive, but for those who can afford it may well benefit from this policy. This is recommended for first timers though, so it is worth considering. There are however, full comprehensive insurance that is cheaper and more affordable.
Other terms such as third party only cover, is exactly what it says it is - this will only cover for third party damages or death. This will ensure that you are covered for any third party liability including their property. There are also a third party fire and theft cover, which will only cover for those three. Bear in mind that damages caused by you, or any modifications made on the bike will not be covered.
You will also approach the term excess, which applies to you and not your insurer. Compulsory excess is the amount that your insurer has quoted for you to pay, which can cover for fire or theft. This is usually a requirement and varies according to your own circumstances. Voluntary excess refers to you agreeing with the insurer to pay a larger amount than the amount you would pay for a compulsory excess.
As a first time applicant, you will not necessarily need to worry about things like social and domestic use, business or foreign policy cover. However, it is always a good idea to get to know these terms and understand their importance. Your first priority is to recognise which one applies to you. Having already mentioned that you may have to expect your policy to be slightly more expensive than that of an experienced rider, you will however be pleased to know that you will find some insurers offer deals or discounts.
Cheap scooter insurance will include third party cover, theft and damages. If you have decided that you will be the sole rider and do not need third party cover, remember you are not just covering for someone else riding the bike but also for damage to his or her property or any health expensive.
Your next step is to seek advice from an insurance broker, if you are still feeling unsure. Often they will point you to the right direction to the best place to find an affordable insurance policy. Always enquire about deals and discounts, as they are more than happy to find this for you.
If you choose not to approach a professional, try talking to experienced riders and gain advice on what steps they took to find their first insurance policy. Remember not to go for the first thing you see, unless of course it is a good policy. The chances are you will need to shop around so do this as soon as you buy your first scooter. Never leave this too late.
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